Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 84
16m. Climb the tricky wall to a ledge then climb up and left crossing the whole wall to reach the exposed juggy arete for a well-positioned finale. Care with rope work required.
Fairly sustained with a very hard and impressive final move up the arete. Pretty much at the top of its grade.
The crux is where it traditionally should be...at the top, but the rest of the moves are varied and excellent! Very much 5b, but sustained.
Stood up on final beak and moved diagonally left to arete - seemed more obvious than hand traversing it
Beautiful route, fine climbing and the arete to finish has good photogenic qualities as the sun sets in the west..Did an alternative start in 1992, go part way up the slight scoop/blind flake and hand traverse to left into centre of wall on small but positive holds (the traverse being some ten feet lower than original routes traverse), ascend direct up wall to use either of the two finishes.
tried it last night amongs a herd of midges i failed to get up the overhanging arete after that desperate fingery traverse,the start is very technical with no gear apart from a very low zero friend ,the moves onto the sloping ledges are very insecure but you can fiddle a small friend in the back of the ledges,if u can hang on long enough.??? i placed a blind half friend on 2 cams in the upper groove to protect the traverse left.After that the gear is ok but the finish up the arete finished me off.A very bold lead for when it was done,in the 1960's.I spoke to Dave Crilley who was on the first ascent with Malc Baxter about it in the Clarence last night it took them 3 days of effort.I hope i was on the correct route.
NEVER 5c. 5b but absolutely mint...
Lovely, lovely, lovely. A bit reachy but still- gues what - lovely!