Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 135
Low in the grade and popular. The centre of the slab leads boldly to the break where a crucial mantel gains a standing position. A final difficult move up the pebbly slab remains. A right-hand variation is very inferior at E2 5c/6a depending on reach.
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my first 6a lead and a worthy one, very enjoyable and satisfying.
Excellent typical grit at its best!
5c for the tall, whichever finish you choose. I'm tall and can't climb 6a. Nice rest at the break as well so not that sustained. Cracking route tho'.
Harder to mantel and rock up if you are tall but then it's very easy at the top!
I'm over 6 foot my second is just over 5'4" - strangely we both disagreed on the technical grade. Both agreed, however, that it's a great route.
It used to be a bit gnarly before someone dug out the break in the late 80s - there was no gear when I did it in about '88. I seem to remember the crux was the start, but then again I was scared on the top. Nothing to do with the last move, more to do with the fact that this big Alsatian put his head over the top with a large stone in it. I think he wanted to play and I was worried he'd drop it. Funnily enough it was with Steve Bancroft..
This route only really has three moves: 1) getting hands in the break 2) getting feet in the break and 3) getting hands on the top. If you're tall enough (I'm not), you don't have to do move (3)! Personally while move (3) is perhaps the technical crux I thought the hardest bit was move (1), cos it's a bit tenous and it's a nasty tumble if you come off.
brilliant route,exellent gear. outstanding. really deserves 3 stars!!
I loved it - and by the way, the gear works - on the first go my foot slipped very near the top and I went for a friend assisted swoop and met no obstacles on the way. The exhilaration from it got me straight up the second time round...
Fun route, and yes definitely easier the taller you are, the break is not a good as you think it's going to be at some points! Mantle crux is well protected though, I had to thutch and wiggle to get the mantle sorted!
easy for e3 and too short to be 3 stars. 2 move wonder.