Cleft Wall Route 1

1 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Chockstone Chimney < Plugging the Gaps  |  Early Starter > Cleft Wall Route 2 >>

Take the zig-zag crack to the awkward final section.


HS? Found this very commiting for HS. Call me cynical but I have done easier climbing at the same grade.
Phil - 14/Feb/05

This is Vdiff in my stanage topo guide, and it felt like it!
prune man - 18/Feb/05

Whoever thinks this is VDiff needs a bit of a reality check, Were the previous comments made by a VDiff Leader or someone who climbs E stupid who thinks nothing of climbing these types of grades? I think Harder climbers can somtimes forget what the easier grades feel like, Remember how extreme it felt when you was pushing it at VDiff/severe?????
Shaun Dutton - 09/Jun/05

Um, I did it when I was climbing V Diff/Severe, and that's what it felt like, a bit awkward in a V Diff kind of way
prune man - 10/Jun/05

hard for hs; by comparing this with the vs next to it (5a in Rockfax guide) this should be 4c not 4b, not least for the move getting established in the second vertical crack.
stonewall - 19/Jun/05

think HS is correct, was not heaps of fun to solo just akward
nate - 18/Sep/05

Whatever people say, large gear and a degree of caution should be exercised on this route. Old school Hard Severe easy with big boots and a woolley jumper.
Garan - 29/Oct/05

line in the guide shows this starting up the right hand crack, I went up left surmounted the ledge and tried to find a piece of gear above foot level, friend 4 was way to small, big bro no.1 too small, if you step up on the foothold on the left side of the crack you can place a good sideways nut and a friend 1 to protect the awkward climbing up the offwidth section.

Reccomend tweed trousers and knee jams :o)
Jon Greengrass - 31/Oct/05

Seemed like a sandbag at HS 4b, but maybe it's time I learned to knee jam!
John Hutch - 26/Apr/07

Great route, did it the other evening after work expected a walk over, it was anything but! Thought it was pretty spicy for the grade!
Rob Cole - 21/Mar/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 48
    hard VS 0 of 16
    VS 0 of 16
    easy VS 1 of 16
    hard HS 9 of 16
    HS 5 of 16
    easy HS 0 of 16
    hard1 of 16
    0 of 16
    easy0 of 16
    hard 4c 0 of 16
    4c 0 of 16
    easy 4c 8 of 16
    hard 4b 4 of 16
    4b 3 of 16
    easy 4b 0 of 16
    hard 4a 1 of 16
    4a 0 of 16
    easy 4a 0 of 16
    3 Stars 0 of 16
    2 Stars 10 of 16
    1 Star 5 of 16
    0 Stars 1 of 16
    Bag of ..... 0 of 16

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