Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 192
16m. One of gritstone's greatest classics, and sadly showing its age. Start up the polished central crack before shuffling right to the base of flake. Layback the broken nose to reach easier though sustained climbing and a rest below the final roof. The belly-flop direct finish is best, though a sneaky traverse left is an easier option. A high stepping Direct Start is a polished 6a and is out of keeping with the rest of the climb.
Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.
good route, getting a bit polished - nearly slipped of at the first big layaway. the finish direct over the roof 'makes' the route: without it it's a bit - dare I say it - samey, sorry for the sacrilege.
This was my second introduction to Grit Stone, I'm more familiar with polished lime stone.
an exellent route, mildly sustained but never desperate. perfect gear and moves all the way, with a commando roll to top out. one of the best.
What a brilliant route. Very sustained - I was so tired by the top that topping out was a case of getting my chest on the top then performing a 90 rotation before the commando roll.
Fantastic! Might be good gear, but if only if you can hang around long enough to place it well!!
i rekon this climb is pretty sustained, you need to keep on the move, don't try to lace it. the moves are all pretty obvious, the only surprise is getting to the top and realizing that that's the hardest move, & on pumped arms!!!
I agree with gr above. While I know the route has a great history, I was ultimately a bit disappointed after finally getting round to doing it. The final mantle is definately the best bit - no cheating by going out left!
Alun and I immediately had opposite opinions on this one. It deserves every star. Much nicer than left (and a few notches easier).
Next week will be my second ascent, I hope. 1979 a party from Sweden was there and now some of us will make a long weekend for remembrance of the good old days when we were young and tough and tasted your beers.
got to say, it's definately a highlight of the HVS grade in the Peak District. One other route better than this in the area, the Great Portland. :)
this is a great climb; i meant to do it ages ago. i have to agree though that its not as good as some people say; same moves all the way except the awesome top out.
pumped at the top?? trying to place wires?? hang off the jams for a rest then mantle to glory. sorted
Loved it!!! Found it a little pumpy as I was a little out of shape when attempted. Isn't the beauty of the route the fact that it is "samey" all the way up? Physical laybacks and hanging off your fist style jams! Deserves all it's stars!