The Right Unconquerable Top 50

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Left Unconquerable < Vanquished  |  Monday Blue > Curving Chimney >>


16m. One of gritstone's greatest classics, and sadly showing its age. Start up the polished central crack before shuffling right to the base of flake. Layback the broken nose to reach easier though sustained climbing and a rest below the final roof. The belly-flop direct finish is best, though a sneaky traverse left is an easier option. A high stepping Direct Start is a polished 6a and is out of keeping with the rest of the climb.
FA. Joe Brown 1949

USER COMMENTS

good route, getting a bit polished - nearly slipped of at the first big layaway. the finish direct over the roof 'makes' the route: without it it's a bit - dare I say it - samey, sorry for the sacrilege.
gr - 08/Apr/02

This was my second introduction to Grit Stone, I'm more familiar with polished lime stone.

An absoultely excellent route, if not a little pumpy. Good rock, bomber gear and good holds.

I fell off several times on the last 5 feet purely because I was knackered. The trick is to carry all the Friends you can get hold of and don't hang around. My problem at the end was hanging around trying to place wires.
Rick Nash - 04/Jul/02

an exellent route, mildly sustained but never desperate. perfect gear and moves all the way, with a commando roll to top out. one of the best.
karl - 16/May/03

What a brilliant route. Very sustained - I was so tired by the top that topping out was a case of getting my chest on the top then performing a 90 rotation before the commando roll.
Huw - 25/Jun/03

Fantastic! Might be good gear, but if only if you can hang around long enough to place it well!!
Simon A - 07/Aug/03

i rekon this climb is pretty sustained, you need to keep on the move, don't try to lace it. the moves are all pretty obvious, the only surprise is getting to the top and realizing that that's the hardest move, & on pumped arms!!!

forget the belly flop and commando roll rubbish, make it a no knees mantle for full points.
leon skeldon - 24/May/04

I agree with gr above. While I know the route has a great history, I was ultimately a bit disappointed after finally getting round to doing it. The final mantle is definately the best bit - no cheating by going out left!
Alun - 26/Sep/05

Alun and I immediately had opposite opinions on this one. It deserves every star. Much nicer than left (and a few notches easier).

For further practice on big-flake laybacking, see Surform and The Rasp at Higgar, which are almost as good.
Pythonist - 06/Oct/05

Next week will be my second ascent, I hope. 1979 a party from Sweden was there and now some of us will make a long weekend for remembrance of the good old days when we were young and tough and tasted your beers.
Lars Grankvist - 29/Oct/05

got to say, it's definately a highlight of the HVS grade in the Peak District. One other route better than this in the area, the Great Portland. :)
No-ozone - 09/Jan/06

this is a great climb; i meant to do it ages ago. i have to agree though that its not as good as some people say; same moves all the way except the awesome top out.
lleyton - 10/Mar/06

pumped at the top?? trying to place wires?? hang off the jams for a rest then mantle to glory. sorted
dave saxby - 15/Jul/06

Loved it!!! Found it a little pumpy as I was a little out of shape when attempted. Isn't the beauty of the route the fact that it is "samey" all the way up? Physical laybacks and hanging off your fist style jams! Deserves all it's stars!
rdoug1as - 30/Jul/07

Brilliant.
Dave Foster - 13/Jul/09

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 189
    hard E1 0 of 64
    E1 0 of 64
    easy E1 1 of 64
    hard HVS 23 of 64
    HVS 36 of 64
    easy HVS 3 of 64
    hard VS 1 of 64
    VS 0 of 64
    easy VS 0 of 64
    hard 5b 0 of 62
    5b 0 of 62
    easy 5b 1 of 62
    hard 5a 8 of 62
    5a 47 of 62
    easy 5a 4 of 62
    hard 4c 2 of 62
    4c 0 of 62
    easy 4c 0 of 62
    3 Stars 59 of 63
    2 Stars 4 of 63
    1 Star 0 of 63
    0 Stars 0 of 63
    Bag of ..... 0 of 63

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.