Monday Blue

1 Stars
Fluttery
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Vanquished < The Right Unconquerable  |  Curving Chimney > Curving Buttress >>


16m. The right arete of the wall has runners just below the crux, but that is a fair way off the ground. Finish as for The Right Unconquerable. Low in the grade.
FA. Ernie Marshall 1981

USER COMMENTS

Reasonable climbing in the lower half which is protected by small friends in the breaks. The
crux near the top is well protected. Nice climbing and not particularly bold.
Nige M - 21/Oct/02

nice arete moves.shame about that awful finish!
mark s davies - 21/May/03

My first E2 onsight. Thoroughly enjoyed the route*


* All comments subject to Fiends approval
Richie Guest - 11/Oct/03

Crux well protected? I didn't trust the marginal cams and escaped into the chimney.
Coel Hellier - 18/Apr/05

with small friends you can get quite alot of gear in, not really run out but all feels bit off balance making it only just(maybe) E2. hardest part felt like the top out as for right unconquerable! really enjoyed it 2 stars i reckon
jamesturnbull - 26/Oct/05

I 2nded this but thoguht the small friend placements, which I investigated quite abit, to eb utterly rubbish in the seocond break, meaning a big deckout if you come off the first hard moves (at about 2/3 height)
Si dH - 11/Aug/06

Fairly constant 5a/b climbing with just about adequate gear - though not really bold... Easy E2.

However, this is the first route I think I've ever got to the top of, thinking it wasn't a good climb... The whole thing feels totally artificial, due to being far easier if you take a half-step left / right. It either needs to be described as an eliminate (no ledge/chimney) just on the arete's left-hand side, or be re-graded to include a sensible climb moving around the arete, and using the good high holds in the chimney (which can still be reached from a position in front of the arete)
Pythonist - 31/Aug/06

It is possible to finish right of the direct finish to RU to make it more independent.
Graham Hoey - 16/Apr/07

Thought the cams below the first proper break at 3/4 height were crap so didn't bother, thus E2 for tricky 5a/b moves with deckout potential. A bit wierd having the chimney so close to your right so 1* only. Finish, 1m right of the RU mantle, the hardest bit!
Owen WG - 22/Oct/07

Better than one might think, pretty consistent and pleasant climbing - with sketchy pro in the middle and a surprise crux higher up. Escaping rightwards would be possible but an unnatural choice.
Fiend - 18/Feb/08

Woo! I enjoyed this. Bold-but-steady climbing to the break that provides very welcome gear some 15' from the top. I lost a bit of focus after getting the gear in, a mental voice kept repeating "That's when he knew he was going to live", which made me giggle a bit.
lowersharpnose - 14/Jul/08

feels a touch artificial but still worthwhile with some nice balancy moves and a tricky (though easily and well-protected) finish. with the exception of a not perfect 3/4 friend placement there seemed to be no gear (or at least gear of any value) between first break and the break just below upper wall / roof section. serious and, relative to other low-end Stanage E2s, definitely worth E2.
ksjs - 15/Jul/08

I know it's escapable, but I think this is a great arete climb, it feels totally natural on the left side all the way up, and I was basically unaware of the proximity of the chimney and certainly never thought about scuttling into it. Due the fact that I can't think of single other E2 natural grit arete of this stature - and its sustained, slopey and delicate moves the whole way up, with boldness, and a high crux above good gear, I think this is 2* and a bit of a classic.
Jon Stewart - 18/Apr/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 75
    hard E3 0 of 23
    E3 0 of 23
    easy E3 0 of 23
    hard E2 2 of 23
    E2 9 of 23
    easy E2 11 of 23
    hard E1 1 of 23
    E1 0 of 23
    easy E1 0 of 23
    hard 5c 0 of 26
    5c 0 of 26
    easy 5c 0 of 26
    hard 5b 1 of 26
    5b 20 of 26
    easy 5b 4 of 26
    hard 5a 1 of 26
    5a 0 of 26
    easy 5a 0 of 26
    3 Stars 1 of 26
    2 Stars 8 of 26
    1 Star 14 of 26
    0 Stars 1 of 26
    Bag of ..... 2 of 26

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