Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 75
The right arete of the wall has runners just below the crux, but that is a fair way off the ground. Finish as for The Right Unconquerable. Low in the grade.
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Reasonable climbing in the lower half which is protected by small friends in the breaks. The
nice arete moves.shame about that awful finish!
My first E2 onsight. Thoroughly enjoyed the route*
Crux well protected? I didn't trust the marginal cams and escaped into the chimney.
with small friends you can get quite alot of gear in, not really run out but all feels bit off balance making it only just(maybe) E2. hardest part felt like the top out as for right unconquerable! really enjoyed it 2 stars i reckon
I 2nded this but thoguht the small friend placements, which I investigated quite abit, to eb utterly rubbish in the seocond break, meaning a big deckout if you come off the first hard moves (at about 2/3 height)
Fairly constant 5a/b climbing with just about adequate gear - though not really bold... Easy E2.
It is possible to finish right of the direct finish to RU to make it more independent.
Thought the cams below the first proper break at 3/4 height were crap so didn't bother, thus E2 for tricky 5a/b moves with deckout potential. A bit wierd having the chimney so close to your right so 1* only. Finish, 1m right of the RU mantle, the hardest bit!
Better than one might think, pretty consistent and pleasant climbing - with sketchy pro in the middle and a surprise crux higher up. Escaping rightwards would be possible but an unnatural choice.
Woo! I enjoyed this. Bold-but-steady climbing to the break that provides very welcome gear some 15' from the top. I lost a bit of focus after getting the gear in, a mental voice kept repeating "That's when he knew he was going to live", which made me giggle a bit.
feels a touch artificial but still worthwhile with some nice balancy moves and a tricky (though easily and well-protected) finish. with the exception of a not perfect 3/4 friend placement there seemed to be no gear (or at least gear of any value) between first break and the break just below upper wall / roof section. serious and, relative to other low-end Stanage E2s, definitely worth E2.
I know it's escapable, but I think this is a great arete climb, it feels totally natural on the left side all the way up, and I was basically unaware of the proximity of the chimney and certainly never thought about scuttling into it. Due the fact that I can't think of single other E2 natural grit arete of this stature - and its sustained, slopey and delicate moves the whole way up, with boldness, and a high crux above good gear, I think this is 2* and a bit of a classic.