Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 30
Start as for the last route but make hard moves up and right to a ledge in the middle of the wall. Continue through a bulge to finish. Almost a full grade easier than the Direct. The direct start is a very reachy V3 6A.
I was able to make a long, precarious reach across to the ledge, though a shorter (& lighter) person could probably make more use of the holds in between.
E2 is a joke (am I breaking the "guidelines for comments" here?) - a single V0- problem above a dodgy landing. Not a good route.
fell off and all the gear ripped which wasnt a surprise so finally did protected by a skyhook weighted down with friends. went up and foot traversed the handholds. still a stupid route
I really enjoyed this route. Nice delicate and committing moves. Ok they aren't high, but the landing isn't good. I soloed it because the gear looked worthless anyway.
A solo. Short but fairly sweet, fine if you climb 5b as long as you get your feet in the right order! E2 seems fair, although soft e2, as E1 5b surely suggets theres gear to protect the crux. And the landing from the crux IS very nasty.
I tried this climb having only climbed one HVS and one E1 before (call me stupid I just want to see my limits). Any way didnt complete it. Fell off on crux the mirco wires are crap and ripped out though a nut in a slot below the micros held. VO problem? What! All on video so I can see where I went wrong.
A good route if done logically. The original route went direct up the arete but stepping on the rounded hold slightly left of the arete that most people try to hand traverse on. E2 5b - basically unprotected crux.