Desolation Angel

3 Stars
 E6 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Hell Gate Gully < News at Zen  |  Hell Gate > Gavel Neese >>

The central arete gives a fine route, climbed on its left-hand side throughout. A distant side-runner is often used at E5, though the upper section remains bold.
FA. Terry Hirst (with side-runner) 1978. FA. Simon Jones (solo) 1992


Not sure a side runnner would make it E5, it is *very* distant! Low runners en route and a great sequence.
Jon Read - 04/Feb/02

Very soft for E6. The low gear is bomber - friend 1.5 and medium sized wire - and definately protects the crux. I was having a bad day and slipped from the good hold on the arete before the big break and after the crux, and still didnt hit the ground.
Its definately a full three star route though and is probably easily onsightable as its obvious how to do it when you get there.
Cheers, Si.
simes303 - 02/Dec/06

Not even sure where the side runners would go - ones in the gulleys either side wouldn't really help unless you put them so high you were top roping... a fast belayer should probably keep you off the floor with the normal gear anyway. Do rockfax actually check routes btw? The top bit isn't at all bold - there's good cams in the break.
Alex Barrows - 18/Oct/07

agree with all above. looks harder than it is. i would probably say E5, compared to other routes. you'll still need a fast belayer though if you come off going for the break which could be a possibility. easily onsightable.
luke - 13/Mar/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 26
    hard E7 0 of 9
    E7 0 of 9
    easy E7 0 of 9
    hard E6 1 of 9
    E6 4 of 9
    easy E6 3 of 9
    hard E5 1 of 9
    E5 0 of 9
    easy E5 0 of 9
    hard 6c 0 of 9
    6c 0 of 9
    easy 6c 0 of 9
    hard 6b 0 of 9
    6b 3 of 9
    easy 6b 6 of 9
    hard 6a 0 of 9
    6a 0 of 9
    easy 6a 0 of 9
    3 Stars 8 of 8
    2 Stars 0 of 8
    1 Star 0 of 8
    0 Stars 0 of 8
    Bag of ..... 0 of 8

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