Desolation AngelRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 26
Adjacent Routes
12m. The central arete gives a superb route, climbed on its left-hand side throughout. A distant side-runner is often used at E5, though the upper section remains bold. USER COMMENTS
Not sure a side runnner would make it E5, it is *very* distant! Low runners en route and a great sequence.
Very soft for E6. The low gear is bomber - friend 1.5 and medium sized wire - and definately protects the crux. I was having a bad day and slipped from the good hold on the arete before the big break and after the crux, and still didnt hit the ground.
Not even sure where the side runners would go - ones in the gulleys either side wouldn't really help unless you put them so high you were top roping... a fast belayer should probably keep you off the floor with the normal gear anyway. Do rockfax actually check routes btw? The top bit isn't at all bold - there's good cams in the break.
agree with all above. looks harder than it is. i would probably say E5, compared to other routes. you'll still need a fast belayer though if you come off going for the break which could be a possibility. easily onsightable. |