Wing Buttress

1 Stars
Technical
 VS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Wing Buttress Gully < On a Wing and a Prayer  |  5.9 Finish > Cleft Wing >>


14m. Start on the left wall of the cleft, at some polished footholds. Make delicate moves to better holds, swing left along the break to pass the arete, and climb the wide crack on the left.

USER COMMENTS

A satisfying combination of varied climbing techniques.
David Jones - 25/Aug/03

Just finished seconding this route in the dark tonight. It is given HVS 5b in the new BMC Stanage guide. Believe me, it definitely felt like that to me! Good route though, but would recommend you do it in daylight! Without a helpful team of spotters to point the footholds out by torchlight, I'd have been screwed!
James McN - 01/Nov/03

Definately a VS 5b in the daylight.

The 5b start is tricky but big handholds await you at the top. A very varied climb to be sure and quite comfortable even the hand traverse with 'poor' foot holds. In fact i was happy to hang on an elbow while a Friend 3.5 was lobbed up to me.

My seconds both thoroughly enjoyed it too.
Albie - 20/Sep/04

Direct start goes at about V6.
ellis - 18/May/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 34
    hard HVS 0 of 12
    HVS 0 of 12
    easy HVS 3 of 12
    hard VS 7 of 12
    VS 2 of 12
    easy VS 0 of 12
    hard HS 0 of 12
    HS 0 of 12
    easy HS 0 of 12
    hard 5c 0 of 12
    5c 0 of 12
    easy 5c 0 of 12
    hard 5b 0 of 12
    5b 4 of 12
    easy 5b 4 of 12
    hard 5a 4 of 12
    5a 0 of 12
    easy 5a 0 of 12
    3 Stars 0 of 10
    2 Stars 7 of 10
    1 Star 3 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

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