Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
18m. Climb the crack (or the wall to its left) and the wide awkward continuation that splits the overhangs above.
not easy, and not well protected without a larger than 4 friend. USA 5.9!!
E1 (or 2?) 5a might be nearer the mark!
A full on sandbag at VS! The crux needs a camalot 4 for pro or equivalent. The moves themselves v awkward and not 4C, nearer to 5A/B but sweet when cracked!
So did you not climb the route before you wrote the guidebook, Mr Craggs? Tsk tsk. Having read these comments I'm now quite glad I decided it was too green and gave it a miss! By the way, it was Severe in the 1951 guide...
Indeed I did and again after. My old guide had no comments on the grade - so either I used to be better than I realised or chockstones have gone awol!
Something must have changed on this route, because the move through the overhang just looked implausible to me at anything below about E2.
I believe it is E2 5b in the new Western Grit (not got it with me) - the Moorland grit team reckoned to have found an easy way of doing it but are keeping that a secret!
It's HVS 5b in Over the Moors, so presumably they didn't find an easier way after all, just a collection of large cams!