Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
Adjacent Routes
18m. Climb the crack (or the wall to its left) and the wide awkward continuation that splits the overhangs above. USER COMMENTS
not easy, and not well protected without a larger than 4 friend. USA 5.9!!
E1 (or 2?) 5a might be nearer the mark!
A full on sandbag at VS! The crux needs a camalot 4 for pro or equivalent. The moves themselves v awkward and not 4C, nearer to 5A/B but sweet when cracked!
So did you not climb the route before you wrote the guidebook, Mr Craggs? Tsk tsk. Having read these comments I'm now quite glad I decided it was too green and gave it a miss! By the way, it was Severe in the 1951 guide...
Indeed I did and again after. My old guide had no comments on the grade - so either I used to be better than I realised or chockstones have gone awol!
Something must have changed on this route, because the move through the overhang just looked implausible to me at anything below about E2.
I believe it is E2 5b in the new Western Grit (not got it with me) - the Moorland grit team reckoned to have found an easy way of doing it but are keeping that a secret! |