5.9 Finish

1 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< On a Wing and a Prayer < Wing Buttress  |  Cleft Wing > Cleft Wing Superdirect >>

Follow either of the previous climbs, but cross the roof rightwards via a thin flake to a tough exit - E1 5b in English.
FA. Clive Jones 1977


HVS 5a? WTF?
Graham - 31/Jan/02

Think the guide book gives this 5b technical - felt right for its grade. Considering gear is a little sprase (one blue alien) on the actual roof think the route is about e1. Really nice climbing anyway.
TS - 01/Jun/03

A tricky little number, must be worth 5b
Ropeboy - 20/Jun/05

I would think most people make the mistake of trying to start up the arete, rather than the proper start to the right. Easy lower climbing followed by good gear and a fun no-hands rest using a toe jam over the roof! No harder than HVS 5a done properly.
Pythonist - 17/Jul/06

Effort is unavoidable for the finish of this safe route. I started up On a Wing And A Prayer, twas fine.
lowersharpnose - 03/May/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 26
    3 Stars 1 of 14
    2 Stars 9 of 14
    1 Star 4 of 14
    0 Stars 0 of 14
    Bag of ..... 0 of 14

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.