Eureka

2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Orgasmo < Ashop Climb  |  Twister > Britt's Cleavage >>


18m. Climb to the huge overhang then traverse left in an exposed position to outflank it.
FA. Malc Baxter 1960

USER COMMENTS

Very hard for the grade espesialy if you don't trust the wobbly jug
fenclimb - 03/Sep/05

2 Stars is stretching it a bit. It's filthy, and the holds feel like they're about to snap off at any minute.
Daz H - 05/Sep/05

Definitely 3 starts for me. The move out from underneath the over hang to the arete and on the face is awesome. Jugs all the way. Dirty yes but that just added to the wild surroundings!
rich macey - 03/Jul/06

The description "weave through the bulges" implies going left and right to avoid the bulges but the straight red line on the photo is correct. The penultimate bulge needs a jump and swim. Splendid grim route, reminiscent of Great Buttress at Dovestone Tor.
Simon Brown - 10/Sep/06

Worth every one of the 3 stars it's given in the guidebook. From the short crack immediately left of the roof, I went straight up to the "jump and swim" crack (good description by the way!), ie not left then back right as in the diagram, as this just seemed the logical way to go.
Simon Caldwell - 12/Aug/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 30
    hard HVS 0 of 10
    HVS 0 of 10
    easy HVS 1 of 10
    hard VS 1 of 10
    VS 8 of 10
    easy VS 0 of 10
    hard HS 0 of 10
    HS 0 of 10
    easy HS 0 of 10
    hard 5a 0 of 10
    5a 0 of 10
    easy 5a 0 of 10
    hard 4c 0 of 10
    4c 10 of 10
    easy 4c 0 of 10
    hard 4b 0 of 10
    4b 0 of 10
    easy 4b 0 of 10
    3 Stars 5 of 10
    2 Stars 4 of 10
    1 Star 1 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

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