Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 30
18m. Climb to the huge overhang then traverse left in an exposed position to outflank it.
Very hard for the grade espesialy if you don't trust the wobbly jug
2 Stars is stretching it a bit. It's filthy, and the holds feel like they're about to snap off at any minute.
Definitely 3 starts for me. The move out from underneath the over hang to the arete and on the face is awesome. Jugs all the way. Dirty yes but that just added to the wild surroundings!
The description "weave through the bulges" implies going left and right to avoid the bulges but the straight red line on the photo is correct. The penultimate bulge needs a jump and swim. Splendid grim route, reminiscent of Great Buttress at Dovestone Tor.
Worth every one of the 3 stars it's given in the guidebook. From the short crack immediately left of the roof, I went straight up to the "jump and swim" crack (good description by the way!), ie not left then back right as in the diagram, as this just seemed the logical way to go.