Cleft Wing

1 Stars
 VS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Wing Buttress < 5.9 Finish  |  Cleft Wing Superdirect > Trimming the Beard >>

Start as for Wing Buttress to the flake crack that runs up to the overhang. About face, flop across the gap, and swing rapidly round the arete to easy ground. Weird and not recommended for the short who may end up with a cleft skull!
FA. Joe Brown 1953


Rather than flopping across the gap try going
high and hand traversing. Its looks do-able but I
didn't quite have the bottle ! But perhaps HVS.
Adrian Skilling - 20/Oct/03

Found some quite difficult moves up the middle of the face. The flop over has great holds but requires some boldness. I was able to strech my leg across to stop undue swingig. My second just hung on and swung across crashing into the wall!
Joe Mansfield - 09/Dec/03

I reckon the technical crux is actually the first move onto the semi-hanging slab. The step/fall across is great fun, and all the holds/gear is there to make it exciting not scary.
Pythonist - 10/Jun/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 29
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