Cleft Wing

1 Stars
Fluttery
 VS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Wing Buttress < 5.9 Finish  |  Cleft Wing Superdirect > Spearing the Bearded Clam >>


12m. Start as for the previous routes to reach the flake-crack that runs up to the overhang. About face, flop across the gap, and swing rapidly round the arete to easy ground - weird!
FA. Joe Brown 1953

USER COMMENTS

Rather than flopping across the gap try going
high and hand traversing. Its looks do-able but I
didn't quite have the bottle ! But perhaps HVS.
Adrian Skilling - 20/Oct/03

Found some quite difficult moves up the middle of the face. The flop over has great holds but requires some boldness. I was able to strech my leg across to stop undue swingig. My second just hung on and swung across crashing into the wall!
Joe Mansfield - 09/Dec/03

I reckon the technical crux is actually the first move onto the semi-hanging slab. The step/fall across is great fun, and all the holds/gear is there to make it exciting not scary.
Pythonist - 10/Jun/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 29
    hard HVS 0 of 9
    HVS 0 of 9
    easy HVS 1 of 9
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    hard 5c 0 of 9
    5c 0 of 9
    easy 5c 0 of 9
    hard 5b 0 of 9
    5b 3 of 9
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    hard 5a 3 of 9
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