Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 65
Make a hard pull on tiny holds to reach the break and a hard finish on poor holds. f6A+ if you sneak off right.
A "fierce pull" or a dynamic move to a good break. The top is tricky but not that bad.
I thought that move was more like 6A?
I'd agree its more like 6a, seam to remember a crumbly little flake near the top.
This is quite simply one of those routes that is style dependant. I found it and easy e1 5c cos I like finger tip thin moves, my thuggy partner who loves steep hand jams found it an hard 5c 6a...
I thought the move to get to the top was the crux
Dynamic/static with right/left hand from the obvious starting position... all good fun. Better counted as a bouldering problem than a route (i.e. finishing not worth it!)
Hard start past a demoralising finger slot (finger size dependent), probably best dynamic. Rest is pretty nice and worth taking some gear for.
Hope those who just do the start don't think they deserve the tick as half the battle is in finishing it on those steep breaks!