Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 88
10m. Climb the blunt arete using flakes (good small wires) to a tricky stretch right to finish up Pedlar's Slab.
A typical gritstone HVS (i.e. closer to E1, and no I'm not new to grit, I learnt to climb on it)
This seemed a soft touch at the grade to me. One move of 5b; the rest of it 4b - soft end of 4c climbing. Not too much gear, but protectable with a nut when you need it. Good route though; liked it!
This has one 5b move and has pro just before it (though you are quite run out by the time you are "safe"). Pretty easy to standard HVS in my view. Certainly not hard enough to warrant the E1 given in the new Stanage definitive guide. And no way is this anywhere like as hard as Pedlar's Slab (given HVS 5c), which is harder tech and more run out.
I thought this was quite easy for HVS. The gear is not amazing but there is only one tricky move next to the gear. Never E1.
Soloed this straight after Pedlar's Slab, and it became more of a head-game! Didn't look at the gear, but the 5a/b moves continue higher and longer than Slab's crux. Desperate VS/piss-easy HVS 5b?