Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 35
18m. The narrow hanging fissure is approached via steep crack and proves to be awkward and strenuous. Exit rightwards.
Steep start. Possible to rest in the base of the chimney. Exiting the chimney is awkward but well protected.
Underrated. It's more varied and interesting than other routes on this buttress such as Central and Max - all eare xcellent though
we trundled a big block from the top today,there's still another one to come...be careful out there!
Some excellent moves up the chimney but not well protected exit if you don't have any big wires or cams left, a size 2 cam or a big nut will do. Watch out for the top it's mostly loose and when your last runner is in the chimney itself that makes for a scarier exit, a nicely sustained route worth at least 2 stars.
Climbed this a couple years ago and again last month, great climb shame about the brit ethics. Top is eroding badly due to the 'no bolts ethos' and the chimney is now dirty. Lets get into the 20th century. From an antipodean.
not sure this is the best example of a Wilton 1 route that would benefit a retro bolt belay but i am a local climber "boy and boy!"... and think that those of us serious about preserving these routes should seriousley consider a new ethic... i am not suggesting we change the CHARACTER of any of these historical lines, they mean as much to me as anybody else.... but just look at the reality... the whole place is overgrown and becoming neglected. I was lucky enough to rock up today to witness local hero Jason cleaning White Slabs Blunt and S
Finish is solid and reasonably clean at the moment.