Fingernail

2 Stars
 S 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Peanuts < Horrock's Route  |  Orange Peel > Flingle Bunt >>


18m. Climb to the prominent 'hook' then traverse left before climbing straight up to the ledge. Step out right and traverse the face to a shallow groove, which leads to the top.
FA. Mick Pooler 1962

USER COMMENTS

Grade is incorrect, HS 4b at least for the start, and the slab after the traverse is no pushover either. Okay route, nice bit of piping!
Fiend - 19/Sep/02

The original line is definitely only severe. Start well to the right of the hook, climb to hook, gear, then fingernail traverse left. Second pitch, all in balance on positive holds.
John B - 01/Nov/02

Starts on the right(as per John B's comment above) despite what both the BMC and Rockfax guides say. What's the point of two guides when they are both wrong? Will the new guide be any better? Starting on left is very polished and about 5b.
The Grizla - 27/Jul/03

Agree with Fiend, did it last night starting to left of hook is harder than 4a. 4b/4c
Mike Hall - 01/Aug/03

Left start makes it a bit more of a challenge great route and might just catch a few Severe leaders out.
donkarlo - 06/Aug/05

As is the case with other Wilton routes the grade in the guide is now wrong (it may have been right years ago). I led it in 1983 giving it HS 4b4a then. The moves below the hook are now 4c, getting harder as the footholds get even more polished. Above the stance there are airy moves on small holds at 4b with only moderate protection. VS overall, 4c4b if done as two pitches. I'd like to vote for this grade but it does not offer it!
Mark Scott - 08/Aug/06

Tried this today, struggled to get off the ground the left start is a lot harder than 999.
Simon Wallbank - 21/May/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 60
    hard HS 0 of 22
    HS 0 of 22
    easy HS 20 of 22
    hard S 0 of 22
    S 2 of 22
    easy S 0 of 22
    hard HVD 0 of 22
    HVD 0 of 22
    easy HVD 0 of 22
    hard 4b 0 of 22
    4b 0 of 22
    easy 4b 20 of 22
    hard 4a 0 of 22
    4a 1 of 22
    easy 4a 1 of 22
    hard 3c 0 of 22
    3c 0 of 22
    easy 3c 0 of 22
    3 Stars 2 of 16
    2 Stars 9 of 16
    1 Star 3 of 16
    0 Stars 2 of 16
    Bag of ..... 0 of 16

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