Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 134
10m. A solo problem up the centre of the smooth slab with a technical start (feels hard unless you 'hop'). Continue more easily, though with care, up pockets then easier ground.
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The start is a lot easier than the grim pocket move higher up-or perhaps I'm crap on slopers.And the landing is nothing to write home about either.Still a good problem though.
It's all fine technically, probably only 5b, but the higher move requires a fair bit of trust in hands and feet high up. Nice spotters always useful!
Felt more like 5c to me, and I was seconding! I'm fairly competent 5b outdoors, and the crux was definitely harder than that! I'm not sure I understand how a route with unprotected 5c moves can be given HVS 5c? Maybe if it was longer, it would be E1......
I thought the start was probably fair at 5c, though it wasn't great conditions when I did this. However, I found it quite hard at HVS overall. None of the moves up to the break were exactly easy and by then you are some distance up. Personally it felt more like E1 to me but I would accept hard HVS. More to the point, I fail to see how this is the same adj grade as Pedlar's Rib (HVS 5b in Rockfax but E1 5b in the definitive Stanage guide) which is at least a grade easier (being tech easier and having pro at half height). Nice slab climbing all the same :)
Sorry for confusion, in last message I referred to Pedlar's Rib but meant Pedlar's Arete.
sounds foolish, but i soloed this when i was leading only VS (and not particularly well!)...it was fine and definitive 5b slab IMO
Used to be VS with a very hard start and still think it is VS with a very hard start.
Response to Philip J Smith: Call me pedantic/boring/whatever, but I'd expect VS routes requiring 5b moves 10 feet off the ground to be well protected. Protection is lacking on this route until you've done the hard stuff and are about 15 feet off the deck. Doesn't strike me as VS 5b....
I would have thought this is similar to The Curse and Lost in France at Burbage North. The Crux is certainly lower than the crux of The Chant. 5c seems fair, but as with all short solos I'm not sure about the adjectival grade, certainly not E1 though.
Great route for that adrenaline rush. The moves get progressivley easier the hihger you climb. I did Cent at high neb and that was technically easier, same height etc but was given E1.
Oh, come on folks! It's a 5c move off the floor and a nice 5b rockover two moves further up, following by jugs that might need a little gardening... And easy HVS 5c, but probably more V1.
I too soloed this as a wibbly VS leader. The crux is jumpable off onto a good landing. a couple of 5b moves off the ground, then severe.