Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 18
18m. Start up Cameo but at 8m move out onto the wall and climb this boldly to easier ground avoiding leftward escape.
Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.
Very worth doing, but you should clean it first...the climbing is fairly technical, but those who can crimp and edge'll have a brilliant time. I got a loop of thin cord (2mm) round one of the knobbly bits, and it might even have held.
Good route, but serious. Didn't spot the loop of 2mm cord so well done to martin. If that doesn't hold there is a good chance of a ground fall if you pop off high up.(no runners high up in Cameo)
Great and delicate crimping in a fine position. Climbable without cleaning as long as it's dry - a lack of chalk enhances the experience. Most natural thing to do with gear is the obvious low runners in Cameo before trending left, and the obvious hollow flake runners higher on the left - felt like a reasonable E4 like that.
I stuck two poorish nuts in cameo pretty much level (on move up and reversed) with where you break off left and then a cam above the slung flake in the crack to the left (again one move higher than you continue on the line of the route.) In all honesty using the flake alone would be ok but its not a route i'd want to fall off in a hurry. Wouldn't bother slinging a chicken head with cord, if its where i was thinking it was it would get in your way as a handhold on the crux. If you're that desperate there's plenty of places for skyhooks.
the description here is slightly wrong though. You don't really climb the wall to easier ground, it steady 5b wall climbing to a harder move higher up. The crux is the move to gain a big edge 6 inches below the top assuming you haven't moved left. One move to top out doesn't really constitute easy ground.
thought this was steady away for the grade and easy to read on sight. gear is all good but you do leave it behind. don't need runners in the route left as there is gear near where the old peg was. if you can crimp and stand on your feet you would have to throw yourself off.