Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 7
Climb the centre of the face to a tiny ledge, step left and go up to the lip of the overhang then trend left past a well-marked runner slot to hard moves over the nose. Another hard move using a pocket, leads through the final roof to an easy finish.
HARD! couldnt do the move up to the break. tried just cranking like the guy in the picture here, but maybe not strong enough. is the arete to the right much use? hard!
Using the heelhook method (see picture) the grade probably is 6a but without the beta few people would think of doing this, and pulling/ dynoing straight into the break is nails. Once at the break only one more tricky move to easy ground.
Not that I've done it, but aren't you wandering into the next route by this method? I mean, if you put your left foot there, why not the right, then make use of that handy flake for your hands... Maybe it's all a bit congested / artificial around there, but I thought it was supposed to go up pretty much on the nose?
A desrerate pull to the last break under the last roof. Felt more like 6b to me. I don't think the arete is of any use. I liked the loose block in the lip, glad it didn't fall out!!
Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected.