The Guillotine

2 Stars
Technical
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Off With His Head < Guillotine Direct  |  The Old Dragon > Fit as a Butcher's Dog >>


16m. Start up the centre of the lower wall but swing right (poor wires) under the roofs to a rest on the right. Traverse the narrow hanging wall leftwards (gripping and hard for long legs) until past the arete. Cross the final overhang using the flake-crack in the nose or the horizontal breaks on the left.
FA. Ed Drummond (one fat peg 1971). FFA. John Allen 1973

USER COMMENTS

bottom section ok but unprotected (the nut behind the flake falls out pretty easy). top bit safe but pretty gripping, pumpy, and hard if you've got long legs.
ged - 06/May/04

All fine, traverse under the roof tricky - my moment of clarity came when the knot in my rope jammed in the crack below me as I was going for rock over! Had to hang from a fistjam to clear it and was even forced to use foul language...
Dan Wrightson - 23/Apr/06

Good route. The wire in the first traverse right can be lodged in/backed up with a small cam. Top traverse cramped and a bit intimidating despite good pro. Watch for rope drag and ropes getting jammed in cracks when belaying.
Simon Lee - 04/May/06

Lower section has nice moves and well protected by good small cams. Well worth heeding the advice about the rest on the right, I didn't rest and failed on the top roof due to being very pumped and very sweaty.
Fiend - 21/Dec/06

Is it acceptable to do the second traverse (R->L) using slopers just above the lip of the roof? It seemed about the same grade to me. The line is unchanged, and my feet were in the exact same place - but the grovelling and 'decapitation' are avoided.
Chris Parson - 10/May/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 16
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