The Old Dragon

1 Stars
Fluttery
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Guillotine Direct < The Guillotine  |  Fit as a Butcher's Dog > Verandah Buttress >>


14m. Climb the steep shallow groove on the right-hand side of the overhanging face to a good ledge. The holds are better than you might expect though the runners aren't. Finish up the short overhanging crack just to the left, or escape right - E1.
FA. Bill Birch (one nut) 1968. FFA. John Allen 1973

USER COMMENTS

There's a BIG difference between escaping right or going over the hanging crack. Going over the hanging crack would be a bit contrived but not doing so felt a real cop out.
Tyler - 11/Oct/04

Superb route. Start into the groove and you will find yourself on the ledge, knowing you've just passed 4/5 5b moves, but not necessarily knowing how. The moves just flow into each other very smoothly. Do NOT finish right - take on the final hanging crack as it's more scary than technically hard.
Pythonist - 07/Jul/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 24
    hard E3 0 of 8
    E3 0 of 8
    easy E3 0 of 8
    hard E2 0 of 8
    E2 1 of 8
    easy E2 6 of 8
    hard E1 1 of 8
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    hard 5c 0 of 8
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    hard 5b 2 of 8
    5b 6 of 8
    easy 5b 0 of 8
    hard 5a 0 of 8
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    3 Stars 1 of 8
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    1 Star 7 of 8
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