Butcher Crack

2 Stars
Reachy
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Fit as a Butcher's Dog < Verandah Buttress  |  One Stop Shopping > Greengrocer Wall >>


12m. Start as for Verandah Buttress to the shelf then continue direct via a short crack and a final looooong stretch.
FA. Peter Biven 1954

USER COMMENTS

Good gear where its needed, and as the description points out a looooonggg reach at the top.
Neil Shephard - 15/Jul/03

I agree with Neil Shephard. The gear on this route is fantastic - it's got everything you need. Pretty solid HVS though. Hard 5a/Soft 5b move to get established on the face, and one hell of a delicate longggggggggg reach at the top. Got the old adrenaline flowing........
James McN - 01/Nov/03

Could not reach the top from the upside-down jam. Needed to undercut the break. Phew..!!
Neil C - 07/Jun/04

The description is wrong, from the ledge a couple of powerful and pumpy moves through steep ground lead to a gently sloping break (keep left) Then jam up the crack finally using an upside down jam to reach the last break, which can be undercut for the even longer reach to an easy topout. good moves after the evil start.
Jon Greengrass - 17/Sep/04

Wrong - or just concise??

Chris
Chris Craggs - 17/Sep/04

wrong. the final stretch is not from an upside down jam. it is from an undercut.
Jon Greengrass - 28/Sep/04

There is a large pebble in the break which helps the undercut. I found the hardest bit was the start.
chris s - 18/May/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 47
    hard E1 0 of 16
    E1 0 of 16
    easy E1 0 of 16
    hard HVS 1 of 16
    HVS 13 of 16
    easy HVS 2 of 16
    hard VS 0 of 16
    VS 0 of 16
    easy VS 0 of 16
    hard 5c 0 of 15
    5c 0 of 15
    easy 5c 1 of 15
    hard 5b 3 of 15
    5b 11 of 15
    easy 5b 0 of 15
    hard 5a 0 of 15
    5a 0 of 15
    easy 5a 0 of 15
    3 Stars 0 of 16
    2 Stars 14 of 16
    1 Star 2 of 16
    0 Stars 0 of 16
    Bag of ..... 0 of 16

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