Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 19
18m. One of the more popular Extremes in the quarry which is technically a tad easier than Golden Tower. Climb the slightly-disposable wall (pegs) heading for the notch in the final roof. Finish through this with care. A Direct Finish over the centre of roof is a hard E3.
Technically much easier than Golden Tower. Gear. Can't be E3, I can't climb E3.
It's pretty bold in the lower two thirds, but going through the final overhang is mega safe, but hugely impossible! 6a at least but yeah, felt easier that golden tower.
Getting through the roof is easy. Looks like you got on the right hand finish whihc I think is an old route of Mark Liptrots at about E3,6a
Glad to read your comments Goi about the right hand variation which is supposedly e2 5c. The moves going through the notch are never 5c in a month of Sundays imho! Ive tried this route twice now and have failed on both occassions. There is a decent crimp above the twin pegs and then a shit one above that but what your supposed to do from there is beyond me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as im getting pissed off now!
An excellent climb due to the enjoyable combination of an elegant wall and an exciting roof. The mud finish is a bit regrettable. Contrary to the printed RF guide the roof direct is obligatory and, with plentiful gear below and positive holds above, is easy rather than hard E3.
That explains why I couldn't do the route! I thought it was E2 5c with a point of aid! So the line on the topo is wrong, thanks chaps. I can usually climb 6a and that finish felt harder than that to me (well I couldn't do it with out the peg!) Had a brief look at going straight up but with the gear out right and the hold under the roof distincly dodgy I didn't really give it a proper go. NIce route, enjoyed Golden Tower but doubt I go back, not as good a crag as Baildon Bank!
I think the correct finish is straight up not via the R hand groove but this finish has been trashed by top ropers/abeseilers so at present it is a muddy horror show. Sad.