Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 68
22m. The classic of the wall, imposing but not too hard! Climb the yellowish groove to a ledge, step out left and climb the wall rapidly to the overhangs. Move right and pull through the stacked notches to finish.
I assume something must have come off the groove since the guidebook as it's more like dangerous E1 5b (reachy 5b, poor gear, uncertain rock). Starting up Cotton Terror ensure TC stays at HVS 5a, and the remainder is great fun.
Can't agree with Fiend. Start of Terra Cotta is 5a at most, and although there is no gear until you're on the first ledge it's not that high up is it.
Thought that this route was fairly easy, as I hadn't lead HVS in quite a while and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Sure that I found gear low down, and the moves to the ledge are easy. The crux has a worrying moment, but you shouldn't deck if you mess up, ERGO no worries
Have to agree with Croc, led it yesterday, 1st HVS lead this year, steady HVS 5a no more, managed to get wire behind small flake for move up to legde. Pull through overhang good holds, well protected
A wonderful route, leaving the comfort of the ledge is never easy.
umm side runners will protect (but maybe lower tehgrade)Is certainly challenging for the grade (compared to first fanal and many happy returns its neighbours)
if you're a short ass - ie 5'1, this route is harder than 5a, just a warning!
I got really good gear by stepping onto the face and dropping down a little to sling the big flake and there is great friend placement behind it too. Makes the moves to the peg a bit less daunting, Sinker nuts under the roof and thouroughly enjoyable.
Cleaned some mud from final holds early 2010 but generally a clean route. One of the best here.