Fool's Gold

1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Gates of Perception < The Golden Tower  |  Samarkand > Glister Wall >>


16m. The hanging groove in the right side of The Golden Tower is a sod to enter and leads awkwardly to the ledge. The upper arete is easier but bold. Finish on the right-hand side.
FFA. Dave Hollows 1969 Ian Lonsdale (2nd pitch as described) 1977

USER COMMENTS

This is harder than the arete to the right (Midas Touch E6 6c)!!!
andy farnell - 11/Apr/03

We came we saw, it kicked our bums. A true crack struggle in the Joe Brown, Don Whillans sense of the word. This climb wouldnt be out of place at Curbar, perfectly placed along 'Peapod' and co.
Andy S - 23/Jul/03

This route is desperate for HVS. Felt E2ish to me. The flake where you place the last piece of gear on the arete is loose and will likely rip the gear and come with you if you fluff the final bold and really quite tough for the position and grade and really reachy moves on the arete. If it did, you'd be lucky to climb or even walk again. Take care, its not stanage out there...
JR - 14/Sep/05

IRT Andy S: Way harder than Peapod!
JR - 14/Sep/05

Turned up at Anglezarke for the first time ever on April 1st 2009, and guess who the fool turned out to be? Made straight for the Golden Tower for reasons which need not be explained. A couple of lads already had a top rope set up on Fools Gold, so after watching one of them apparently make a pig's ear of it, I asked if I may have a go. I'd been working a V8 boulder problem down at Awesome Walls and thought I was a bit handy and that I'd dispatch it with ease. Could scarcely make it off the floor. Eventually struggled into the off-width groove thinking it would get easier here, but it just spat me back out. That was IT for me. It bitch slapped me right down. Humbling for sure. Who ever graded this HVS 5b is either very strong or has an odd sense of humour. It's thuggy.
Nicky Reid - 14/Apr/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard E1 0 of 3
    E1 0 of 3
    easy E1 3 of 3
    hard HVS 0 of 3
    HVS 0 of 3
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    hard VS 0 of 3
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    hard 5c 0 of 3
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    easy 5c 1 of 3
    hard 5b 2 of 3
    5b 0 of 3
    easy 5b 0 of 3
    hard 5a 0 of 3
    5a 0 of 3
    easy 5a 0 of 3
    3 Stars 0 of 3
    2 Stars 2 of 3
    1 Star 1 of 3
    0 Stars 0 of 3
    Bag of ..... 0 of 3

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