Little Tower

1 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Swings < Turf Crack  |  49 Bikinis > Little Tower Chimney >>

The short arete avoiding the routes on either side. Tricky gear.
FA. Dick Brown 1951


Hard work and less protection than you might expect.
Steve C - 23/May/02

agree with you .
serious moves to start with no decent gear.
had to go into turf crack for side runners.
official stanage guidebook shows the line just to the right of arete. rockfax shows route just left of arete? confusing or what. hvs 5a i think is nearer.

Found this one very hard.Got half way and found the reach for the next hold was 2ft beyond reach . Are you supposed to bridge on martello buttress ?
Phil - 18/Jun/04

Glad to see that other people found this hard, I struggled a bit and was glad of a mate's ridiculously large rack of cams! For my money VS, although a random bloke we met reckoned it was HVS- which made me feel a bit better :-)
Rich Payne - 19/Jul/05

The line in BMC - right of the arete - is it supposed to be a protectionless nightmare. Too hard to protect so downclimbed.
Mutl3y - 24/Apr/06

Didn't find this too hard, one long reach on poor holds, but its protected by a large cam, your then on good jugs to the top with two more cam placements.

That said my friend struggled on it.
nshephard - 13/Oct/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard HVS 0 of 2
    HVS 0 of 2
    easy HVS 0 of 2
    hard VS 0 of 2
    VS 0 of 2
    easy VS 1 of 2
    hard HS 1 of 2
    HS 0 of 2
    easy HS 0 of 2
    hard 5a 0 of 2
    5a 0 of 2
    easy 5a 0 of 2
    hard 4c 0 of 2
    4c 1 of 2
    easy 4c 1 of 2
    hard 4b 0 of 2
    4b 0 of 2
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    2 Stars 1 of 5
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