Hell Gate Crack

2 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Gavel Neese < Lucifer  |  Joie-de-Vivre > Primal Void >>

The steep flake-crack splitting the face leads to the large overhang - the central section is both pumpy and awkward to protect. Step right for an easier finish.


Too polished to be really enjoyable any more. The crux is low down and involves not sliding off the holds!
Simon Caldwell - 13/Jun/02

Suprisingly pumpy for the grade, but good climbing.
Nick Smith - 02/Sep/03

Run-out up high when those inviting wrinkles are too blind to take gear. Pumpy but a good giggle.
SteveM - 27/Oct/03

you're joking, that's not HS! Not with pumpy moves like that on the runout bit!
Stone Muppet - 09/Nov/04

Did it gain on Saturday, it's not so slippery when it's freezing cold! My partner got 6 bits of good gear in, it's not at all run out if you're strong enough to hang around finding them.
Simon Caldwell - 29/Nov/04

I stand corrected, apparently she only got 5 bits of gear, but the principle's the same :-)
Simon Caldwell - 01/Dec/04

Not that slippery, nor pumpy. A good route but could be excessively slippy soon with more traffic.
Iggy_B - 18/May/05

The new VS 5a*, Primal Void, that crosses this route starting up the blunt arete to the right and travesing left under the rooves to finish up Gavel Neese is very worthwhile.
Offwidth - 06/Feb/06

A good route - not as much polish as eveyone moans about and good moves. Loads of gear!
Mark Buxton - 29/Jul/06

Did it again yesterday, less polished and more fun than I remembered, has someone been out with an industrial sander? ;-)
Simon Caldwell - 08/Oct/07

A meaty HS and worthy of at least 2 stars!
Not all all polished (try climbing at Yarncliffe or parts of Stanage popular!)
Gear isn't that obvious/easy to place so can feel much harder for a nervous leader
kristian birchall - 06/Apr/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 72
    hard VS 0 of 23
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    easy VS 2 of 23
    hard HS 7 of 23
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    3 Stars 2 of 26
    2 Stars 12 of 26
    1 Star 10 of 26
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