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A long and classic route in a stunning position however no one seems to get beyond the first 5m. The upper pitches probably need new gear since the stuff currently in place looks dreadful. A full rack will be required. A good opportunity for the trads to show the sporty-types how it's done - no hanging around on the first few bolts though. 1) 7a+. Difficult climbing to a stance just left of the huge exposed slab. 2) 4+. Take the slab rightwards to a bolted stance where the roof above diminishes. 3) 5+. Up and leftwards to a stance at the base of a large corner. 4) 6a. Traverse left to the next corner and climb this to the top.