Martello Buttress

3 Stars
Technical
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Choux Fleur < Another Game of Bowls Sir Walter?  |  The Scoop > Bloodshot >>


16m. The original classic of the buttress. Climb either side of the large jammed block (crux) to gain its tip, then continue directly for 6m until the small platform on the left can be reached. Move out to the left and finish up the well-positioned arete.
FA. Fergus Graham 1922

USER COMMENTS

Im amazed this has been given the same grade as The Scoop. Low grade HS once past the crux block.
Steve C - 23/May/02

Great route though the crux is the start. Sorry, but this IS, in my book, a VS. I have seen a pretty solid VS leader fail on this as the start is so tricky - so it's no soft touch. But above this....easy peasy :)
Jon Croxford - 13/Jul/02

The left hand start option is a pig of a vdiff thrutching exercise. Not pretty. Route pleasant enough above, probably just worth the 2 stars. Give the RH start a try.
gav p - 12/Aug/02

I couldn't get up the LH start so did the RH, not too bad so long as belly flops are allowed.
But I couldn't do the top and eventually called for a top rope which I propmptly fell on a couple of times. I suspect I may have been too far right.
Simon Caldwell - 12/Aug/02

There are three starts! Left and Right of the block and further right (as per the new 2002 guide) all are awkward 4b. For Simon, the route finishes on an Arete how did you miss that?
Steve C - 05/Dec/02

Steve - Was working from an old guide book which wasn't clear where it was supposed to finish! The arete looked desparate, so did the wall to the right, so I went for the latter. I think it's HVS or something too hard for me so it's not suprising I failed!
Simon Caldwell - 06/Dec/02

The start might be the equivalent of VS 4c, but hey; it's the start! The rest of the route does not feel in any way like VS - more like HS 4b. Overall, this route does not warrant the grade of VS 4c, but it's still great!
James McN - 23/Sep/03

First attempt couldn,t do the top, went too far left. Gaining the final jug up the arete was a bit reachy been a short ass so that was the crux for me, the start is only a bit tricky and can be well protected. Dont be fooled by looking up at this climb (i was) it looks like a jug fest it isnt... a very good VS4b
Shaun Walby - 15/Nov/03

I had a similar experience at the top. Stayed right of the arete and ended up doing a horrendous move on rounded holds, but that's probably the finish of the E1? Overall I wasn't particularly impressed
RobD - 21/May/04

Had great fun on this route, the moves were great when i worked out what to do - how to get passed the block at the base took a while but worked out a really graceful sequence and the last moves took a while finding a way up - a few inches extra reach would have made it straight forward and uninteresting - couldn't reach/feel the good hold till above it! Secure all the time so will go with HS.
Cambridge - 30/Jan/05

The left hand start can be done in numerous ways. I hooked a right leg over the tip of the block and then used my feet for friction to shuffle up. My mate just simply shuffled slowly up with both feet down left. 4b seems about right and with reasonable gear so HS. Easy HS above.
CurlyStevo - 27/Sep/06

OK the start is hard, but above that it's only severe. If Verandah Buttress is only severe, then this certainly isn't VS
Iain Thow - 03/Apr/07

Nice and easy problem
nate mcmullan - 18/Sep/08

The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the unorthodox manoeuvre, which reduces it to 4a and possibly 3c! - with no chance of a fall!
pero kalugerovich - 17/Sep/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 128
    hard HVS 0 of 44
    HVS 0 of 44
    easy HVS 0 of 44
    hard VS 1 of 44
    VS 19 of 44
    easy VS 9 of 44
    hard HS 15 of 44
    HS 0 of 44
    easy HS 0 of 44
    hard 5a 0 of 42
    5a 0 of 42
    easy 5a 0 of 42
    hard 4c 4 of 42
    4c 19 of 42
    easy 4c 5 of 42
    hard 4b 14 of 42
    4b 0 of 42
    easy 4b 0 of 42
    3 Stars 9 of 42
    2 Stars 28 of 42
    1 Star 5 of 42
    0 Stars 0 of 42
    Bag of ..... 0 of 42

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