Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 83
From the pillar right of Devil's Chimney, pull right to access the hanging crack awkwardly. Climb this, via another hard move, then traverse rightwards to finish left of the top of Hell Crack.
Found this quite technical for VS but there again it does let you know what your in for with the 5a bit.Leaving the the ladders needs a sequence of 2/3/jams moving above any gear you got in. The difficulties dont end with the crack either, once youve moved out right your home and dry.Good test if you think your about ready to lead HVS.
Getting established in the crack to the right is the crux, the key is to step right and up confidently and jam the crack (two or three jams) to the break.
I really enjoyed this as a warm up, good jams and then jug pulling the rest of the way.
If you're happy jamming I think this is only 4c. Lovely sustained route
for some strange reason, i thought i was on a HS4b!!(spanner), and thought the stepover tho be to stiff for that grade...
Crack isn't deep enough for good handjams and makes the step rightwards really tough. Bomber gear and good rests though