Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 138
14m. The bulging jamming crack is taken direct and is superb. The initial overhang is the crux and although well protected, it will seek out any weakness in your jamming technique.
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Surmount initial overhang by reaching across to left crack for jam. This allows you to reach higher holds with right hand. Great fun.
A brutish start then continues to get even better. You can protect the moves before you make them so just enjoy.
Tip - if you're going to hang around on the overhanging crux whilst placing gear, do it fast! Had to retreat to pre-overhang ledge to de-pump before trying again. An absolute quality route and a real VS. Feel those stars............
climbed alot harder grades but still found this hard work. great gear but get it in quick and get over the start. i got too pumped and so made the easy moves above hard work.
A good route that to me felt hard in the grade and pumpy. I followed the line in from the right as per definitive guide, unlike the rockfax route which has been straightened
As the description suggests, a lack of jamming ability can make this feel quite pumpy. If you can jam, it is quite reasonable at the grade.
Approach from the right? I've never seen it done any way other than straight up.
I can jam and did jam, but am quite big so found it quite pumpy. In fact Graham the desrrption says it's taxing I am merely in agreement with this, I think the jamming comment refers to being able to climb it confidentally and succussfully on lead in the first place.
I personally think that comments relavent to line or grade should only be given by those who have actually lead climbed the route....... hey Simon.
Woker, Please read my comment again, concentrate hard on the word 'seen'.
Firstly....The man has a point, i very much hope that anyone who votes/comments on this facility has led the route there talking about(nuff said).
I found getting bomber gear in to protect the crux easy. Pulling over the roof was tricky, came of several times
My favourite solo on the crag. Comfy jams but a tussle nevertheless. Brilliant
I thought this pretty middling at VS 4c, I dont knwo where the 4b comes from, its not, and if it was that bit easier at the crux the route wouldnt warrant VS. One hardish move then easier, and all well protected. You need to know how to jam though.
Brutal! Very rough rock. I'm glad I don't have to do it again...
nice and easy problem