Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 129
A breathtaking pitch of outstanding quality. The technical thin crack leads to a rest below the overhang then traverse up and left until a good horizontal break is reached. Move back right and make a tricky move to gain a good ledge. From here a crucial precarious layaway move leads to the horn and a delicate finish.
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Stunningly good pitch, best HVS at Stanage? Big 'Friends' in the horizontals make it an fun expedition - must have been mighty scary 'back in tha day'
The start is the crux and pumpy without technique. Don't go too high before the traverse like I did, otherwise it is desparate ! (well i though so). top route
A great route and solid HVS. The first few moves up to the overhang are indeed pumpy but a definite sequence can be found to make it easier. I found this to be the crux though still a couple of difficult moves higher up.
Why isnt the direct in the database? Its a better route than Congo Corner and quite reasonable for an exciting bit of E1 heel hookin?
I've just realised the direct is now called The Link, Doh!
The starting 8-10 feet up the crack is the crux, in my opinion. However, the mantelshelf onto the ledge further up ain't no pushover either, although a confident and committed approach will see you right. Interesting move up to the juggy horn from this ledge. A quality route and a real HVS, definitely deserving of its 3 stars.
wicked route. technique will see you right up the crack without getting too tired. loved the traverse back across and mantel up. thought i might have got a bit more gear in after the mantle at this grade, but hay ho
once again my Salvation lies in Rockfax user comments - tired at the end of the day my poor jamming sees me succumb to not quite making the first 12 feet and thinking this was not even the crux I skulked away forlornly - now I see the light I am freshly determined.
Amazing route, gave me a climbgasm. Dint see the high wires for the 2nd crux but just went for it anyway with my last pro dwindling away in the break at the start of the rightwards traverse. After the hard start the rest of the route feels quite eash IMHO!
Found the start quite desperate but the rest quite steady. My 2nd HVS, very enjoyable.
Superb all the way.