Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 98
A direct on Congo Corner with good rests between the hard moves and low in the grade. Climb Congo Corner to where it heads off left. Then go through the bulges, on creaky flakes, to where a swing left allows you to join Congo Corner again just below its upper crux. Finish up this.
A softish touch for a Stanage E1 but one of the best routes on the crag. I always thought this was Congo Corner Direct?
The Definative E0?
Sustained? You can sit down on the ledge under the roof and psyche up for the moves through the overhangs! But don't leave it too long...
Fine climbing and not too sustained - there are only really two or three steep moves through the roof. Worth taking a Friend 4 for the mantle onto the second ledge.
Good route! Sloth + a bit (sort of).
This route is not E1. It has massive holds, is well protected and has hands off rests before and after the steep bit. Middle of the road HVS.
The bit after the overhang is the crux...how many onsites head up there with a cam big enough for after the roof? not many i'd say. Couldn't reach the wires described above this either from the ledge...so it definitely felt like e1 climbing on lead.