Mississippi Buttress Direct Top 50

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Congo Corner < The Link  |  Mississippi Variant > Mississippi Variant Direct >>


22m. The flaky crack that splits the centre of buttress is one of Stanage's premier VS routes. Start in a leaning groove and climb this steeply to a bridged rest below bulges. Pass this awkwardly and then follow the soaring flake-crack above which eases gradually with height.
FA. Roy Horseman 1927

USER COMMENTS

Absolutely top notch. Bottom half is hard work, definitely top end VS - leans wrong way. Thankfully top bit eases off making it definite 3 stars. Very well protected.
Brian - 26/Jun/02

I thought this quite easy for VS. Gear is fantatsic, holds are huge and plenty of rests, only one or 2 tricky moves - but i had just had a fight with Congo Corner which may influence my view. Top route well worth doing again and again
lithos - 18/Jul/02

This is not an easy VS but is a brilliant one. The moves and challenges keep on coming with great protection and positions all over, despite the protection I felt that some moves were 'steady'. You can get rest throughout.
Martin - 29/Jul/02

Brilliant route! Moves up steep ground for a VS, but there is a good rest before every hard move and the gear couldn't be better. A couple of hard 4c moves over bulges higher up is the crux, but you can reach up and place overhead wires to protect both of these before you go for it. Great fun.
gav p - 21/Aug/02

Quite and awkward solo!
Dave - 23/Apr/03

One of my absolute fave routes on grit at any grade. Definitely easier than it looks with only one move where you have to commit yourself (being that in the Rob Clark photio alongside). Stacks of good holds just where you need them, allied with plenty of good chock placements.
Fishfood - 05/Sep/03

An excellent route but it ought to be Hard Severe 4b and soft for that grade!
al evans - 15/Sep/03

superb route, up there with the top 3 ive done at VS 4c. great gear, good pro, couple of tricky moves and rest's just where you need them...i doubt it gets much better then this on grit.
Shaun Walby - 28/Sep/03

Sorry, but having just cimbed it for a second time, I can't see why it gets rave reviews? (Heresy!) The top cracks are getting well polished from all the friend placements. If you want a great grit route, go next door to Morrison's Redoubt....
Brian S - 19/Nov/03

a nice climb but why is it high up in the rockfax graded list?
leon skeldon - 13/Apr/04

Covers amazingly steep ground for a gritstone VS. Moving between the bulges was tricky but may be harder for the tall?
Jon Greengrass - 17/Sep/04

climbed this many times and still a brill route.
the moves are all steady and with great gear and rests you can enjoy this. good holds and rest between moves.i recomended route for climbers wanting to try 4c.i grade it 4c only because its steep but the actuall moves are no harder than 4b.
andrew mackintosh - 20/Sep/04

This route didn't really feel like VS 4c, but I'm pretty strong (not wanting to sound like my head is up my backside), so the steeper ground didn't really seem too bad. Was past the crux before I'd even realised I'd reached it. Handholds and laybacking were great the whole way. Spoke to a Mate about this (who is a much better/less worse climber than me), and he reckons that if you get the hand sequence wrong on the crux, it is much harder and definitely falls into the VS grade. Still, a well protected route and a pleasure to climb. Shouldn't really be near the top of the VS spectrum in the Rockfax guide, but it deserves its stars for quality of line.
James McN - 03/Oct/04

I definitely found this the hardest VS 4c id led (out of a total of 10 or so now), the move over the first bulge I found particularly hard, although cracks and bulges aren't my strong point. Great route though.
SidH - 24/Oct/04

This was a superb VS - is as good as it looks.
Andy M - 30/Aug/05

Soloed this on a day out soloing this summer. The only route amongst many that I got to a point high up where didn't want to go up or down. Very happy to get to the top!!
Jus - 22/Jul/06

Found this quite mild at the grade. Ponced around placing plenty of wires from the ledge and then it was all over. Top banana though!
Mutl3y - 20/Jun/07

Probably the best route I've done. Great gear, good holds and a couple of rests.
mark20 - 28/Jun/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 297
    hard HVS 0 of 98
    HVS 0 of 98
    easy HVS 0 of 98
    hard VS 29 of 98
    VS 58 of 98
    easy VS 10 of 98
    hard HS 1 of 98
    HS 0 of 98
    easy HS 0 of 98
    hard 5a 0 of 99
    5a 0 of 99
    easy 5a 0 of 99
    hard 4c 26 of 99
    4c 59 of 99
    easy 4c 13 of 99
    hard 4b 1 of 99
    4b 0 of 99
    easy 4b 0 of 99
    3 Stars 93 of 100
    2 Stars 6 of 100
    1 Star 1 of 100
    0 Stars 0 of 100
    Bag of ..... 0 of 100

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