Mississippi Variant

2 Stars
Strong
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Link < Mississippi Buttress Direct  |  Mississippi Variant Direct > Stanleyville >>


24m. A historical route which has been largely superseded by the Direct but it still sees plenty of attention as the climbing is excellent. Follow Mississippi Buttress Direct to half-height, then move right to reach the right-trending flake. Climb this steeply to an overhang and make difficult moves out right to gain a small ledge and an easier finish up the wall.
FA. Bernard Simonds 1930s

USER COMMENTS

Quality line. Be warned though - it's bold! You cannot protect the crux move, and I came very close to taking a 10 foot lob. If you're looking for your first HVS lead, then in my opinion, don't do this route until you've got a few under your belt.
James McN - 19/Oct/03

Very nice climb. This was my first HVS lead and I definetly didn't think it felt bold
Nicos - 10/Apr/04

Guess it depends how you define bold. A 5a move with the last gear about 7 feet below felt pretty bold to me. Maybe I missed something (or maybe I'm a pussy), but I take my hat off to anybody who leads this as their first HVS onsight!
James McN - 16/Apr/04

A good part of the VS and then some more good climbing. Very enjoyable. Solid gear all the way up.
Paul Winder - 25/Jul/04

My second decent HVS. Very good route and does need a bit of bottle on the upper section, although gear is excellant thoughout. My advice on this one...keep moving.
Shaun Walby - 14/Aug/04

I think the first comments regarding lack of gear at the crux suggest that those people were perhaps on the wrong route. The gear is brilliant all the way up and the route felt like a soft touch for HVS - only a little harder than the original line.
Nick W - 23/Aug/04

a well protected hvs 5a. after seconding it and leading it i think it's middle of the road, not soft touch because it keeps you on your toes for a number of moves.
leon - 06/Aug/05

Seconded this and glad i did, nice route to hop up on a rope but can imagine the lead bein a tad bold!
Adam Moroz - 24/May/07

The only boldish bit is the traverse. But that's just a gentle shuffle along the ledge to good holds. Nice route.
richard - 13/Jun/07

nice and easy problem
nate mcmullan - 18/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 64
    hard E1 0 of 22
    E1 0 of 22
    easy E1 0 of 22
    hard HVS 0 of 22
    HVS 13 of 22
    easy HVS 9 of 22
    hard VS 0 of 22
    VS 0 of 22
    easy VS 0 of 22
    hard 5b 0 of 22
    5b 0 of 22
    easy 5b 0 of 22
    hard 5a 2 of 22
    5a 13 of 22
    easy 5a 7 of 22
    hard 4c 0 of 22
    4c 0 of 22
    easy 4c 0 of 22
    3 Stars 5 of 20
    2 Stars 13 of 20
    1 Star 2 of 20
    0 Stars 0 of 20
    Bag of ..... 0 of 20

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