Mississippi Variant Direct

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Mississippi Buttress Direct < Mississippi Variant  |  Stanleyville > Puzzlelock >>


20m. Climb through the overhangs to a ledge then, from the left-hand end of this (low runners) step awkwardly up and left (much harder for the short who might claim an E2 5c) to reach a sloping ledge on the previous route. Finish up this or more directly.
FA. Bill Birch 1968

USER COMMENTS

You say E2 if you are short. I think HVS if you are tall, which I am!
Geoff Odds - 24/Oct/03

Conditions dependent, I blew the onsight tow years ago, testing the spectacular but safe fall, making the crucial reach to slopers on a hot "sticky" summers day. Two days ago at 14 C with a good wind blowing it felt fine. Agreed you'd have to have your footwork sorted to get this done if you're much below 6 foot tall. best route on the buttress.
Jon Greengrass - 17/Sep/04

About 5'10 and was at pretty much the limit of my reach. Think the ability to jump would be more useful than footwork if you're much shorter!
andy reeve - 22/Mar/05

I had a go last night, and had no problems getting to the crux - then stood around for ages trying to get up. With feet as high as possible and on full stretch, working fingers up the wall, I was still an inch short. Even on a top rope (had to retrieve gear anyway) at 5' 6" it just isn't possible. Not a question of increasing to E2 5c, either you can reach it or you can't.
Sazzle - 10/Jun/05

i think this is a 3 star route. good gear all the way and every move makes you think. plus after you do the e1 5b bit you get to join the hvs 5a at it's crux -double trouble for your money! awesome.
leon - 06/Aug/05

Felt quite an artifical line and a bit pointless, would say E1 for the short HVS for the tall
fenclimb - 22/Sep/05

Well I thought it was really good, not really artificial, I reckon it makes more sense than starting up the VS and the climbing was really good. Softish for E1 (at 5ft11) but fair at 5b I thought.
Si dH - 22/Sep/05

no way is this artificial and/or pointless. Only as much as most grit routes anyway. similar to Reeve I'm just under 5'10" and the move was right on the limit of my reach and felt hard 5b/ easy 5c ish really. Good gear, good route. My mate's smaller and he did the move on the little little pockets and high feet - so it is possible but obviously harder.
Steve Ramsden - 21/Jan/06

A really nice climb. I loved the transition from steep jugs to delicate reaches and back to steep jugs again.
I thought fairly easy for E1 (since there's gear virtually in the crux), but I am 6' plus.
Glen - 17/Mar/06

Well, that makes me feel better - failed on this when I was leading E1/E2 regularly. I'm 5'7", and just could not work out how to make the reach.
Hutchm - 30/May/06

5'9", but my comments are virtually the same as Glen's. Perfect gear, great crux, plus a good second crux (HVS) to keep you on your toes. Reasonable E1 5b, but should get another star.
Pythonist - 07/Jul/06

I'm 5'8 and the reach was almost impossible, I ended up leeping for it, and the holds are not as good as you would like (rounded), I agree if you are over 6 foot then its HVS, and if ur even taller you could just use the under cut and reach up instead of having to use two small crimps.
robert bridges - 08/May/08

nice problem
nate mcmullan - 18/Sep/08

I am 5 foot 6" with a negative ape index and still managed this ok, def not impossible for shorties! Just go with your right hand up to the rounded ledge instead of your left. E1 5b/5c.
Millsy - 07/Sep/09

I am 5 foot 6" with a negative ape index but still managed this ok after a bit of working out, def not impossible for shorties! Just go with your right hand to the rounded ledge instead of your left.
Millsy - 07/Sep/09

Bloody hard at 5'4", don't listen to those saying impossible though, there are options but I'm not going to give the game away. Shame the route is so unbalanced, because the rest is an absolute doddle. One star, and a reachy symbol surely??
Jon Leighton - 28/Apr/10

@ 5'10" I just about made the reach off the undercut (just get your feet high and use your balance) but you then have a hand swap and a step up before you get the good holds with gear at your feet and worryingly close to the deck.
David Wright - 14/Jun/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 139
    hard E2 0 of 47
    E2 0 of 47
    easy E2 7 of 47
    hard E1 4 of 47
    E1 17 of 47
    easy E1 16 of 47
    hard HVS 3 of 47
    HVS 0 of 47
    easy HVS 0 of 47
    hard 5c 0 of 47
    5c 0 of 47
    easy 5c 9 of 47
    hard 5b 3 of 47
    5b 33 of 47
    easy 5b 2 of 47
    hard 5a 0 of 47
    5a 0 of 47
    easy 5a 0 of 47
    3 Stars 18 of 45
    2 Stars 16 of 45
    1 Star 10 of 45
    0 Stars 0 of 45
    Bag of ..... 1 of 45

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