Stanleyville

1 Stars
Fluttery
 E4 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Mississippi Variant < Mississippi Variant Direct  |  Puzzlelock > Morrison's Redoubt >>


20m. Low in the grade but harrowing. Climb the rib to the ledge on the previous climb then make worrying moves to a horizontal break (a very poor Friend is the best you can get in here). Make a hard mantelshelf and finish up the final section of Mississippi Variant or head left through the bulges for a more pumpy finale.
FA. John Allen 1973

USER COMMENTS

yup..the 3.5 placement isn't that good, but move above ain't that bad !!!
Marc - 17/Feb/02

I found an F3 in the break to be better than a F3.5. Also best placed 'upsidedown' with wide pair of cams on top. Very bottom of the grade at E4.
nige M - 22/Feb/03

Cheers, the friend 3 looked pretty good. A very enjoyable route; the mantel isn't too bad.
John Camateras - 20/Jan/04

Mantel not too bad? Christ, awkward to say the least! Very much a one move wonder though!
north_country_boy - 31/May/05

The definitive guide gives this route finishing over the overhang above Mississippi variant, which is distinctly harder than the one given here.
karl walton - 14/Jun/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 18
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