Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
A fantastic route which, if climbed in one long long pitch, will be a sure test for any stamina lord. This is not just because of the nature of the climbing, but the rope drag and the weight of your excessive amount of quickdraws will be teaming up with gravity to pull you off. Therefore it is best done in two pitches. 1) 6c, 15m. Follow good pockets up the wall to a step right around the bulging arete. Continue directly up the arete via a hidden pocket to the anchors and belay ledge. 2) 6c, 30m. A brilliant pitch climbing the crack line above the belay which feels very long and incredibly sustained and doesn't ease until you've clipped into the final anchors. Locally this pitch is called Aqui ve el dilema and graded 7a+.
Fine to do in 1 pitch with a 70m rope.....very sustained on the 2nd pitch...finishing moves aren't too bad.
Drag not too bad.....18 qd's in total but you can do the 6a to the right and lace the first 5 clips.
Unfortunately only did P1. Great climbing on this section, fun pockets and well bolted.