Morrison's Redoubt

2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Stanleyville < Puzzlelock  |  Melancholy Witness > Amazon Crack >>


18m. A good route with a scary start though low in the grade. From a block (low Friend) climb the wall using tiny layaways to a good horizontal slot. Continue up a short vertical crack then a wider one, trending right to the top by excellent climbing.
FA. Don Morrison early 1960s

USER COMMENTS

superb, it's what grit is about, use your feet and your brain!
l applat - 12/Mar/03

Brilliant route. One daunting move but after that it's thought-provoking, sustained but not hard (5a) and well-protected.
3 stars
SteveC - 19/Jun/03

Scary! I didn't take enough gear, and had to really run out the top half of the route, which is supposed to be well-protected! :/
Nick Smith - 25/Jun/03

Surely this is only HVS or if it isn't then grades have got a darn site easier over time.
Philip Smith - 23/Feb/04

Relax on that first bit and it really isn't that hard technically, and as soon as you make yourself make the first moves, there's bomber gear.
Eric - 24/Jun/04

worth E1 - nice 5bish moves to reach and then leave friend slot
steve ramsden - 22/Apr/05

Not impressed. I would have to leave it at E1, but with the note that it's a damned easy one. The crux is low enough not to get scared about the (even) lower gear, and then it's all over. Can't see why this gets 2*, the same as M Variant Direct - it could lose one easily.
Pythonist - 07/Jul/06

Harder for the short, i seconded it and took a fall tryin to reach the brk. Found leaving the brk quite easy in comparisson, great route tho!
Adam Moroz - 24/May/07

nice and easy problem
nate mcmullan - 18/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 144
    hard E2 0 of 49
    E2 0 of 49
    easy E2 1 of 49
    hard E1 0 of 49
    E1 24 of 49
    easy E1 19 of 49
    hard HVS 5 of 49
    HVS 0 of 49
    easy HVS 0 of 49
    hard 5c 0 of 48
    5c 0 of 48
    easy 5c 1 of 48
    hard 5b 0 of 48
    5b 35 of 48
    easy 5b 12 of 48
    hard 5a 0 of 48
    5a 0 of 48
    easy 5a 0 of 48
    3 Stars 5 of 47
    2 Stars 38 of 47
    1 Star 4 of 47
    0 Stars 0 of 47
    Bag of ..... 0 of 47

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