Centre Stage

2 Stars
Reachy
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Balcony Cracks < Exit Stage Left  |  Balcony Buttress > The Flue >>


18m. Start at ledges below the centre of the face, trend left then right through the bulges. Keep left of the wide crack on Balcony Buttress then, from the heather ledge, pull strenuously through the centre of the roof to finish at the notch.
FA. Chris Craggs 1993

USER COMMENTS

A great route, I can't believe this laid undiscovered until 1993.
laurie - 22/Apr/02

An excellent route, but the line in the guide seems a bit too left at the start. You can start the route under the overhang on the left, but it looks like holds have snapped off and it is more like 5b/c! Start further right at a more reasonable 5a.
Nick Smith - 15/Aug/02

starting as for the guide under the overhang is the way, which didnt feel any harder than 5a. an exellent route with supurb finishing moves over the small roof.
karl - 23/Jul/03

Starting under the overhang definitely felt like 5a to me - hard end of the grade though. The use of a knee on the ledge should definitely prompt an arrest by the style police aswell. Excellent route though - fantastic moves through the roof, and good gear where you need it (apart from the move up after the initial ledge).
James McN - 25/Oct/03

good route. agree the overhang start is only 5a.
it's great at the top when you peer up @ the overhang & realize you still have another 3 or 4 moves left :)
leon skeldon - 11/Jul/05

Have to admit to resorting to the right knee on the ledge to get established at the start! I agree with high 5a, it feels harder because of the awkward position you're in. Exhilerating finish in the wind, quite committing but the holds are there in the back of the final horizontal break, glad the notch at the top was good!!
John Parkin - 11/Aug/06

Exellent route, Well worth doing. The protection is a bit sparse at the bottom where it's V easy anyway, but superb protection leading up to and at the crux. Nice pull over the roof on good holds. Loved it.
richard - 13/Jun/07

Excellent route, certainly 5a at the start under the overhand, if anything easy for 5a. Took a big 20ft whipper of the top moves onto extended gear below the overhand, think I was left of where I should have been as found it a doddle when I went for it again (with a bit more gear along the way!). Great route, well worth the stars.
Rob Cole - 15/Aug/08

Good route, shame the middle bit isn't a little harder. My 5'2" girlfriend made short work of it so not reachy in the slightest, despite the reachy symbol.
Jon Leighton - 28/Apr/10

Good climbing, but no line. Constantly escapable. Oh look, FA 1993. I have a theory that people like these routes *because* they're escapable.
Jon Stewart - 22/Jun/10

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 70
    hard E1 0 of 23
    E1 0 of 23
    easy E1 0 of 23
    hard HVS 0 of 23
    HVS 19 of 23
    easy HVS 3 of 23
    hard VS 1 of 23
    VS 0 of 23
    easy VS 0 of 23
    hard 5b 0 of 24
    5b 0 of 24
    easy 5b 0 of 24
    hard 5a 3 of 24
    5a 18 of 24
    easy 5a 3 of 24
    hard 4c 0 of 24
    4c 0 of 24
    easy 4c 0 of 24
    3 Stars 1 of 23
    2 Stars 16 of 23
    1 Star 6 of 23
    0 Stars 0 of 23
    Bag of ..... 0 of 23

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.