Agony Crack

2 Stars
Strong
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Upandover Crack < Needle Crack  |  Thrombosis > Rigor Mortis >>


12m. Climb the awkward thin crack in the blunt arete to an uncomfortable ledge, then attack the crack that splits the overhang by jamming and/or laybacking. Watch the rope-drag.
FA. Len Chapman 1940

USER COMMENTS

don't underestimate the pain that this route may cause you
Julian - 04/Jul/02

Hard bouldery start if you take the proper direct start, easy if you come in fom the right. The moves are straightforward but require large amounts of stamina. Good but exhausting!
RobD - 07/Apr/03

Lovely (but powerful) layback moves around the overhang and upper crack - no agony at all. I didn't even need to put in one fist jam! Proper start is nails though, and takes quite a commiting solid 5a move to get established on the slab (if you don't cheat by starting out on the right).
James McN - 07/Jun/03

the correct start at the thin crack felt harder than 5a tougher than any of the moves on congo corner done on the same day.however it is only one very hard pull to the better holds. do not be put off by the name, no agony was encountered.
karl - 23/Jul/03

The start felt solid 5a maybe 5b not one for a warm day. Cheeky leg hook under the roof gives a well needed shakeout. 1 perfect handjam and laybacking on enormous jugs lead through the overhang to the top. Completely painless.
Jon Greengrass - 08/Oct/03

I cant believe I just cocked up the top crack and fell off just before the layback move. The direct start is the tech crux, the rest just requires stamina, which I evidently dont have!
MattG - 29/Apr/06

Lovely route - although I would be tempted to say that it's a stiff VS. Perhaps the only thing that bumps it up is the tricky start.
Tom - 06/Jun/06

I like jamming and was dissapointed to find there wasn't any !
GrahamD - 26/Jun/06

Hard start,was only seconding so after falling off about 8 times i just thought bollox to it and came in from the right. Nice top bit!
Adam Moroz - 24/May/07

The start is hard, whereas the move through the overhang is about 4c, but feels harder when pumped from placing high gear! My first HVS, and a good one
mark20 - 08/Apr/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 121
    hard E1 0 of 41
    E1 0 of 41
    easy E1 0 of 41
    hard HVS 3 of 41
    HVS 20 of 41
    easy HVS 15 of 41
    hard VS 3 of 41
    VS 0 of 41
    easy VS 0 of 41
    hard 5b 0 of 40
    5b 0 of 40
    easy 5b 2 of 40
    hard 5a 16 of 40
    5a 21 of 40
    easy 5a 1 of 40
    hard 4c 0 of 40
    4c 0 of 40
    easy 4c 0 of 40
    3 Stars 1 of 40
    2 Stars 26 of 40
    1 Star 13 of 40
    0 Stars 0 of 40
    Bag of ..... 0 of 40

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