1 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Regret < Agony Crack  |  Rigor Mortis > Paralysis >>

Climb the groove on the right to a ledge then the left-hand narrow crack above. Hard for the grade though the gear is good!
FA. Don Morrison early 1960s


A tricky little VS if you can jam, and desperately hard if you can't!
Nick Smith - 15/Aug/02

Really hard but fortunately well protected. Arguably stiffer than Agony Crack next door.
Steve Clark - 25/Jul/03

A dreadfully horrific climb despite its innocuous looks at ground level and VS 4c grading. Difficult to jam properly in the greasy crack. Wear a helmet and get at least 2 bombers as high up as possible from the big ledge before going for it. You've been warned!
mcjsspt - 27/Jul/05

Its easyer to layback
fenclimb - 26/Aug/05

Each time I thought I'd done the desperate bit, there was another! HVS surely.
JohnHutch - 18/Nov/05

I thought this was desperate to jam and a good deal harder than File, Hell crack, Mutiny crack etc. Maybe layback is the way to go? HVS if not.
TomPR - 06/May/06

I found this harder than Agony Crack. It is amazing how 6 metres of VS climbing can feel so hard! I used a full repetoire of laybacks and hand/fist jams on this route and it definitely felt hard. On the other hand - the gear is excellent.
DaveF - 26/Jun/06

This is a seriously bad route to warm up on. Agree with all the above.
Mark Grist - 18/Feb/07

I only seconded this, but it seems like a serious sandbag at VS. I could barely hang on, and I didn't have to place any gear!
cider nut - 02/Apr/07

I agree with nearly all the above.
This must be a first.
This is a nasty route and shouldn't be attempted by a VS climber.
I went on to lead Exit Stage Left, E15b immediately after, which I found easier.
Thrombosis is at least HVS5b.
richard - 02/Sep/07

High in the VS grade, but no more.
Graham - 18/Sep/07

Did Centre Stage, Agony Crack then Thrombosis, and this one was hardest of the three. So, VS for all three seems about right.
Tim Waterhouse - 17/Jun/10

I seconded this and then led Agony Crack. Agony Crack was easier for sure.
James Cox - 03/Jun/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 59
    hard HVS 0 of 29
    HVS 0 of 29
    easy HVS 6 of 29
    hard VS 20 of 29
    VS 3 of 29
    easy VS 0 of 29
    hard HS 0 of 29
    HS 0 of 29
    easy HS 0 of 29
    hard 5b 0 of 3
    5b 0 of 3
    easy 5b 1 of 3
    hard 5a 2 of 3
    5a 0 of 3
    easy 5a 0 of 3
    hard 4c 0 of 3
    4c 0 of 3
    easy 4c 0 of 3
    3 Stars 0 of 27
    2 Stars 1 of 27
    1 Star 21 of 27
    0 Stars 4 of 27
    Bag of ..... 1 of 27

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.