Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 34
18m. Climb the awkward wide crack to the right-hand edge of the prominent circular cave, then move out right to finish up the face in a fine position. Well protected but quite hard work.
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toughest v.diff ever? not one for your first lead methinks.
The mate I climbed this with has only led a few routes, hence is still new to leading. I sent him up this for some gear placement practice, in the naive knowledge that it was "Only a VDiff", having not climbed it before myself. He made it, but found it quite intimidating and slightly tricky in a few places. As this guy has seconded a few HVS's with me, I reckon this speaks volumes. There are much kinder VDiffs out there on grit! A very good route though nontheless.
Hard to start direct, judging by the polish most people (including me!) traverse in from the left. After than it's straightford VDiff, but harder if you traverse low down with your hands in the big break rather than moving up into the cave and using the break for your feet.
Start quite tricky for the grade but really not too difficult if you can jam. I liked the climb and loved the cheekyness of the traverse.
I once saw someone leading this on a single rope. He neglected to extend any of his runners and eventually found himself within a couple of metres of the top, but unable to make any further progress!
extremely hard at the grade, there are many easier severes about the place. Easier if you have a rest stood in the cave though.
Well I'd had an excellent sunny day getting back into trad routes and decided to do one more before home. What a horrible choice this was. After coasting the first section up to the cave I was a little unsure of the next part of the route and so popped into the cave to have a look, mistake 1! Was a pain to get out of again and then i did the traverse too low with my hands in the big break which was horibbly unnerving, mistake 2. After that though coasted up the face to the top. Apart from the traverse a lovely climb though def hard for the grade though. I did manage to get rope drag too, it is a must to extend most draws on this one.
I too made the mistake of going into the cave, hoping that it would offer some protection, bad idea! While the start was a bit tricky, I found a couple of moves on the face above the cave to be the most awkward. I also thought it was poorly protected for the grade.
Did this a few years back. A really nice route and didn't seem too hard for VD, compares in difficulty with Leaning Buttress Crack. There is great gear in the cave a sling aroung a huge boulder!
sent my mate up this for his 3rd lead ever and he did the traverse to low but managed to get through. I think the low traverse is pretty fun but definatly not for the faint hearted that think its a VD! Good fun.
I think the route description for this climb needs clarifying. It says "climb the crack to the right-hand edge of the prominent circular cave, then move out right to finish up the face in a fine position."