Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 87
The blunt arete has a bit of a bold start. Slippery moves gain the arete, then a detached block. Another tricky move gains the upper section which soon eases.
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slippery is understating it a tad ! good route gear is great after first bold polished part
The pollish isn't bad at all. One of the best VSs on Stanage.
Is putting gear behind the detached block a good idea? actually most of the placements sounded a bit hollow.
This route is HVS 5b in the Stanage guide, quite a difference?
Good route, good grade, and not that bold after the first move. There is gear before the detached block.
A really nice route with a half-decent bouldery start
HVS 5a in the Stanage guide. I certainly dont think its 5a, did anyone else find the lower section wit hall its polish harder tha nthe supposed crux off the block?
The block is about 4m up and sounded quite loose, small cam placement directly above it.
Is the block actually detached? Surely it would have come off if anyone's ever fallen on to gear placed behind it (which is likely since the crux is just above from memory).
I did this route today (very nice) - and if the block wasn't moving before it is now. (Only very slightly though, under the extreme provocation of my enormous bodyweight.) I resisted the temptation to put gear behind it on the grounds that I'd rather deck than deck and then be squashed by a falling boulder! Once you've got hold of the block its dead easy to mantle up onto it, and theres a good bit of gear not far above it.
Gear beta alert!!! Without a friend half this climb is badly protected until after the crux (10m up). The section below the block is badly protected as the block is loose, don't put cams behind it, they will loosen it, a nut is as good (bad!) and wont pull the block off.
Very good E3 5c up the face left of the arete of Twin Chimneys Buttress - Bill & Ted's lobotomy - Stanage guide.