Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 46
A fine and tenuous finger-crack. Gain the base of the crack from the left via the big pocket or (harder) from below. Perfect wires protect thin layback moves at two-thirds height and the awkward finishing crack which is less bold than it used to be.
First moves are the hardest if you do not cheat and come in from the left.
This is such a lovely route, only short but so satisfying. The trick to the 'proper' start is to get your weight low and close to the rock. Doing this makes the fairly poor holds for the initial pull much more positive. The exit however can be sandy/wet as the crack seeps.
did it in '76 (dmorg.org/climbing/britain/grit.html)