Boc No Buttress

2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Robin Hood's Cave Traverse < The Asp  |  Wuthering > Dithering Frights >>


An exciting climb with just enough protection. Climb The Asp to the good runners then make a difficult hand-traverse (easier for lanky types) to the arete, along a poor set of pockets. Continue boldly up the arete, past one good runner. The Direct Start, 6c is an astounding leap with a high side runner.
FA. Steve Bancroft 1979. FA. (Direct Start) John Allen 1990

USER COMMENTS

There is a crucial and very good pocket that cannot be seen from the ground. Knowing where this is makes a big difference!!!!
The rock 4 placement is far left of the arete ledge and has to be placed almost blind !!!
The top move is about 5c, but OK.
MarcOOOO - 08/Apr/03

That should read :

The rock placement is far RIGHT of the hand ledge.
MarcOOOO - 09/Apr/03

This is definatly 6b and maybe soft E5. You'd come close to the ground if you fluffed the arete move.

Great route though
Adam Lincoln - 10/Oct/04

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 20
    hard E6 0 of 0
    E6 0 of 0
    easy E6 0 of 0
    hard E5 0 of 0
    E5 0 of 0
    easy E5 0 of 0
    hard E4 0 of 0
    E4 0 of 0
    easy E4 0 of 0
    hard 6b 0 of 11
    6b 0 of 11
    easy 6b 4 of 11
    hard 6a 5 of 11
    6a 2 of 11
    easy 6a 0 of 11
    hard 5c 0 of 11
    5c 0 of 11
    easy 5c 0 of 11
    3 Stars 6 of 9
    2 Stars 2 of 9
    1 Star 1 of 9
    0 Stars 0 of 9
    Bag of ..... 0 of 9

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