Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 106
A devious but classic solution to this fine buttress. Climb the chimney (a high sling runner is naughty but normal) until it is possible to bridge along a low line of pockets and bounce onto the left-hand arete. Traverse left and up to a slot in the centre of the face - small gear. When suitably sorted, trend left to a shallow groove just short of the arete.
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a great expedition! fairly safe (dont mess up the traverse!) and great moves (if you can commit!)
So how high is the 'high' runner? And which is the best way to face when bouncing onto the left arete?
Save yourself a bucket-load of rope drag and use a VERY long sling round the chockstone. Bridging feels wierd but is fine when you do it. The rest is easy.
I did it some years ago. Clipped the LH rope into a big sling around a boulder 20 feet left of the start. Would have prevented a big swing into the groove if I'd have fallen off. Clever eh ? Fab route anyway. Not hard once you know the secret.....
The perfect gritstone experience.
easy after the bridging move, easy traverese and good gear to finish absolutley qualitly route
Bridging was fine, nearly lost it on the traverse when i started to climb up to early. But a classic worth doing.
Quite thrilling for the second (me) as well. For me the crux felt like the last few moves. Brilliant fun.
Lovely. The bridging is good fun, traverse is easy and the final "up" moves made me think a bit!
missed out the bridge(only5'7")by chimping slightly higher up then lower down the arete to the traverse.awsome route!
Nice route, the small gear is bomber as tested by myself although a trip to NSRI did ensue! Two spained ankels. A no 2 nut is now in situe.
Can't quite decide on the grade on this one. With a high sling, the 5b crux is effectively top-roped (and therefore not E2 teritory), the traverse (5a-ish) a bit scary but still surely not E2-teritory to good gear and then a few 5a/b-ish moves just above the gear. The final moves a bit scary too, but you aren't gonna deck. All in all, no section of the route really seemed to warrent E2, but maybe the whole experience does? Not sure what I'm trying to say here!
Insitu wire chip stick mentioned is now gone.
Why trend left ? Going straight up from the gear slot, including going up the wall above seems more logical
Holds on traverse felt very positive when you believe in the friction..plenty of opportunity to reverse your moves if you get unsure on what's ahead...not as commiting as some E2, 5b's outhere.
Very easy E2; crux move onto arete is perfectly protected. Traverse is 4c (but scary) then good gear and spooky 5a moves to finish. Fantastic.
one of my best gritstone memories; as scary for the second (although in a different place) as for the leader
Andy Hobson's description is bang on. You don't need to be that tall for this, I'm 5'4 and whilst the leap from the bridge seems improbable before you do it, it's fine when you commit if you have a decent plan.