Paucity

2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Not Much Weak Stack Battered or What? < Withered Thing  |  Robin Hood's Crack > Tea-leaf Crack >>


18m. A good and varied route. Climb an open groove to the left-hand side of a narrow roof (old jammed wires) step left and follow the delicate groove to ledges. Finish up the wall above.
FA. Don Morrison and friends, early 1960s

USER COMMENTS

A great rotue to break into the HVS grade. Good gear below the crux. Gain the big hold the agan perfect gear for the next move. Possibly harder for the short.
Mark Grist - 19/Aug/02

A great sequence of moves through the crux. A deep one-finger pocket may be of some assistance!
Nick Smith - 25/Jun/03

Getting a bit crowded in the crack below the crux with well-wedged nuts. Someone's been at them with a hack-saw leaving room for a 1-Friend only. Good fun tho.
Goose - 07/Aug/03

Two stars is particularly over-generous for a route on which the quality is confined to a small proportion of the overall route, itself - a delicate, technical groove. Maybe one star, at a push.
Gavin McGrath - 08/Dec/03

I agree with the above, but the crux gear placement looked pretty trashed to me. There are four stuck wires in there, and the rest of the crack looks scarred, broken and flared. The best I could manage was a Friend 0.5 sitting on only two cams! Maybe I'm just inept.. Looks like a good micro cam would go in though (~Friend 00?).
RobD - 29/Mar/04

did it two weeks ago ,pulled out one rusty wire and got a sma1l cam in lovely.1 star for aspect.
nick w - 27/Apr/05

5a(?) moves to establish yourself in the groove and then 5b up the delicate groove. very well protected but hard finish.
leon - 06/May/06

I found that it was hard to get any bomber gear in due to all the rusty wires. I used a 0.5 cam which was a bit under cammed on 2 of the cams and a size 1 next to it. I think it was ok but not as bomber as I would like. I also found that the moves up to the ledge were fairly thin but it was a hot day. Good route.
DaveF - 26/Jun/06

Looks to me as if the wire in the crack is relatively new, but there is still an old rusty wire that has been sawn off (or snapped). very good route, helps if your flexible, didn't find the crux to hard it was the delicate upper moves that seemed hard.
robert bridges - 04/Apr/08

Someone has done a fine job of cleaning out all the insitu ironmongery.
GrahamD - 04/Apr/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 124
    hard E1 0 of 42
    E1 0 of 42
    easy E1 2 of 42
    hard HVS 3 of 42
    HVS 34 of 42
    easy HVS 3 of 42
    hard VS 0 of 42
    VS 0 of 42
    easy VS 0 of 42
    hard 5c 0 of 41
    5c 0 of 41
    easy 5c 0 of 41
    hard 5b 2 of 41
    5b 25 of 41
    easy 5b 13 of 41
    hard 5a 1 of 41
    5a 0 of 41
    easy 5a 0 of 41
    3 Stars 2 of 41
    2 Stars 26 of 41
    1 Star 13 of 41
    0 Stars 0 of 41
    Bag of ..... 0 of 41

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