Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 47
14m. From the boulders, climb the tricky slab to the left-hand twin cave (often avoided by a traverse in from the left). Move right and climb the narrow rib between the caves and the steep shallow groove above on good flat holds - thrilling.
Brilliant route. Best soloed to fully appreciate the exposure. A short but bold slab, then a scetchy exit onto a ledge, now take a moment to enjoy the commitment, then press on boldly up an overhanging scooped wall on good but well sspaced holds, simply stunning!
Wny miss out the slab? It's a route of two halves, each one being technical and bold. Delicate friction work on the lower slab, and powerful but positive edge-pulling on the upper half. Worth a couple of stars. You get a great view of HSD as well.
Small wire placement is nearly worn out now.
I seem to be the only person who thinks this is a total sandbag at hvs. I thought that the unprotected slab was hard (5b) and that the gear on the upper section was a git to place - the hardest route I've done in a while (and that includes some E2s!).
No, your not alone. It's a total sandbag. The move at the top of the slab is top end 5b and you will hit the floor if you mess it up. So why is it HVS? On any other type of rock it would be at the very least E1 5b. I'd be a bit miffed if I was an HVS climber and found myself half way up that slab contemplating my options! The top half is really good, and not hard, although I concede it would be tiring if you stopped to place gear. personaly I popped a great wire at the bottom of the steep bit and launched on through to the top.
The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak...
The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b would be more in keeping. Protection is by an RP and micro wire before the step out and 2 rock 1's on the higher ledge all not great..