Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 85
14m. The thin crack is reached by a delicate traverse from the left or direct (5a) by a hard mantelshelf. It provides finger jams, runners and slippery footholds, and leads to the Right Twin Cave. Move up and right to a good stance on a higher ledge. Escape easily out right across the balcony or better tackle .......
The entertainment comes from getting onto the shelf and attempting to stand up for the long reach to the break above. Decent protection from there on though.
The direct start feels like the only proper way to begin the route, and doing it that way makes it feel really tough for VS.
couldn't agree with comment about dirct start being the only proper way to begin route! This "alternative" start is a unique vs at stanage-try it!
The direct start is the obvious line, and I was most surprised when my friend who's several inches shorter than I made the long reach no probs, apparently a toe hook comes in very handy. If you get to the balcony, you should definately go for Hardings finish.
UNSOLICITED BETA ALERT